What is an ASMR? These are videos or rather audios, in which soft sounds and speech or whispers are recorded, which trigger this strangely pleasant feeling in many people – like goosebumps, tingling and grinning.
More precisely, ASMR stands for Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response (Wikipedia) – That’s the goosebumps feeling.
An ASMR FPV Drone Build-Video
So Jakub G. aka Jakub X (YouTube) aka Cobonovi (Insta) created this wonderful build-video, where besides fantastic shots, the sound is the main focus. And we know the crackling of the anti-static film in which the electrical components such as flight controllers are packed or the hissing of the soldering iron when we wipe off the excess tin on the cushion.
What does “Turtle Mode” mean in FPV? How do I set it? And why does it make pilots fatter? All the answers here!
What is FPV Turtle Mode?
Quite simply, when your drone is upside down, you can use it to turn it around only with the help of the controller. From a distance!
FPT Turtle Mode: Here, you can clearly see how only 2 propellers rotate against their normal direction in order to raise the TinyWhoop
What was done before the FPV Turtle Mode?
Where does the name come from?
Before there was Turtle Mode, an upside down FPV quad was helpless like a turtle on its back. Hence, the name (Turtle = turtle). And actually, you should say “Anti-Turtle Mode”, because this prevents your Race quad from being like a turtle. But “Turtle Mode” has now become globalized.
How did they turn them around in the old days?
By hand! Yeah, that was super annoying. In the past, if you landed upside down after a crash, you had to run up to the drone to turn it around. And of course, that’s always been in the farthest places, or really hard to get to. It goes without saying =)
That’s why people say for fun that Turtle Mode has made the FPV community fatter, because Turtle Mode has taken out the last bit of movement 😉
How do I activate the FPV Turtle Mode?
In Betaflight the setting is called “Flip over after Crash”. This is simply placed under “Modes” on a free switch of your radio.
“Flip over after crash” is the name for Turtle Mode in Betaflight
IMPORTANT: The angle for arm must be set to 180 degrees (i.e. it is deactivated = you can arm your racing drone from any angle), otherwise the Turtle Mode will not work as you cannot arm the quad when it is upside down!
How do I use the Turtle Mode?
DISARM FIRST! After the crash, you should of course disarm immediately, especially if you land on your head.
Activate Turtle Mode: Now move the lever on which you placed Turtle Mode to the corresponding position. The OSD should briefly display “Turtle Mode”.
Arm: Focus again to use the Turtle Mode.
Press Pitch / Roll briefly: To turn around, always press briefly (1 second max!) in the direction of the desired rotation: The mode rotates two propellers “backwards” to straighten the FPV drone. If it does not work the first time, repeat more often.
Disarm & Turtle Mode out: Once you are upright again, disarm and toggle the Turtle Mode lever so that the mode is off again
Arm & Fly On!!
Is Turtle Mode dangerous?
For humans, this is not all that dangerous: If the mode is activated by mistake, the quad usually only rotates around its own axis. (Accidentally activating the motors in Betaflight is more dangerous: Here the drone then flies in one direction, and just gladly in the direction of the face).
However, the Turtle Mode is dangerous for your ESCs! Therefore, always activate only very briefly (see above). If your propellers are blocked, the energy will quickly destroy your ESC.
Therefore, do not be too lazy: If the copter is near, better go there shortly and turn around. Nevertheless, this mode is a real gift – There is even a DJI FPV Drone Turtle Mode =)
How do I get started in the FPV racing drone world?
Another approach than the simulator approach for FPV racing drones beginners is to start directly with small drones or quadrocopters. Because the whole thing is much more affordable than you think. A first start is already available for under 20 euros. Of course, this still has nothing to do with FPV flying, but you can at least “race” in the kitchen or office.
Level 1: A small drone for under 20 euros
Yes, there are ready-to-fly micro drones including remote control for as little as 20 euros. FPV is not, nor can these be flown in acro mode, but that doesn’t mean it won’t be fun. On the contrary, with hardly any other toy can you spread so much laughter and good humor as with a micro quad. In addition, you quickly realize “whether the whole thing is something”, because the control is really not so easy.
Eachine E010, E011 and E012
Perfect for this are the two micro quadrocopters from Eachine, the E010 and its successor, E012. Incredible what you get for your money. You have all the control axes (4CH) as with a “big” quad, a radio is also included (although it is really uncomfortably small), the things are almost indestructible and fun is more than guaranteed.
E011 is similar to the E010 and besides the fake lego man has a bit more powerful motors and is minimally larger. The Eachine E012 is again as big as the E010.
Eachine E011 with Fake Lego
The Eachine E010 is a copy of the Blade Inductrix, and there are several copies / extremely similar models in this size. There would be, for example, the Holy Stone HS210, HS330, stuff from Potensic, JJRC H36 – all very similar. But the cheapest you can usually find the E010 at Banggood in China.
If you have to choose between mode 1 and mode 2, I would recommend mode 2 – this is the more common configuration of the remote control (the gas is on the left). Shipping from China can take two to three weeks – but it’s free and the price for the quad is awesome.
The little things are there to have fun and to get used to the controls. What exactly you can do with them to get to FPV flying later, you can read in the book, which you get with the newsletter subscription.
Yes, you read that right! You can fly FPV for less than 100 euros. That means: From the view of the drone with FPV goggles and control the quad itself. Here, as we jet a round through the office:
In this older clip, we “built” the FPV drone ourselves. As a basis we used an E010 from above.
Basically, the video transmission system (VTX) doesn’t really have anything to do with the rest of the technology. So the remote control, the motors, flight controller and propeller form the one unit, then separate is the video transmission system and the receiving glasses. So what you do for the “under hundred” entry into real FPV is to buy a cheap pair of goggles, and simply equip one of the drones from level 1 (see above) with a VTX + camera. These cam + VTX modules are available as a tiny, ultra-lightweight connected component:
Eachine TX01 – With this you can convert everything to “FPV
The two power wires of the component are then soldered to the board of the Microquad (instructions here).
These small units of camera and transmitter module are really cool – and you can build the really everywhere on it. The power can also be supplied by a small battery, and you can fly, drive, sail all sorts of things (remote-controlled racing cars, boats…) FPV….
If you don’t feel like soldering (which you should get used to if you’re into FPV racing) you can also buy a ready-made micro quad with the VTX system already mounted. Here, too, you can safely go for Eachine in terms of price/performance. The goggles are in any case not as good as the EV800 from above. But here is just already everything.
The Eachine E013 is flown with goggles “FPV” and there is a kit with controller and goggles
And what do I do with the drone now? Practice flying, of course! =) With the small quadcopters like in the apartment, much can not actually break down there.
However, as a beginner on the way to becoming a real FPV pilot, I would recommend a special exercise as the first: Hovering. To do this, place the Microquad on the ground and press the throttle stick (the throttle lever – in Mode this is the left up) exactly until you “just don’t” take off. When the quad is jerking around on the ground, use the right lever to let the drone slide on the ground.
How the whole thing works in a little more detail and a lot more you can read in my E-book “In 8 steps to the FPV Racing Pilot”. Subscribe to the newsletter here!
BetaFPV has always been pleasing drone lovers and taking the drone world by storm, thanks to the dynamic and immersive video footage they’re capable of capturing.
TinyWhoops (the very small FPV drones) is the best and ideal choice as an entry-level for beginners to pros currently. Cetus Pro is the top, premium option and complete package among other generations, in which includes everything you need to get started in the exciting world of first-person view drones (also called RTF, “Ready to Fly”). Cetus Pro is easy to control, durable and can hold its position, and can handle crashes, not to mention that it is low cost. It is more powerful and maneuverable for all starters as well as FPV pros to practice indoor and outdoor.
The set includes everything you need for FPV flying:
The TinyWhoop (Mini FPV Drone).
The spark (remote controller). The controller is compatible with drone simulators.
VR02 FPV goggles.
Batteries.
Battery charger.
There are also a few useful extras:
Replacement propeller.
Cable for simulator flying with controller.
Tote bag (I like this one a lot!).
Instruction, stickers…
FPV radio and goggles
The small BetaFPV radio LiteRadio2 SE is known and really quite decent, I recommend this even as a budget version for large FPV racers. The goggles are more in the toy class. But you have to save on the goggles to get the package price into these regions. A good pair of FPV goggles costs a good four times as much as the entire package. But they are sufficient.
Drone and flight modes for beginners
BetaFPV clearly focuses on FPV beginners with the Cetus Pro FPV Kit. Everything is pre-configured. (Normally it is quite fiddly in the FPV area, until you have connected the drone with the radio remote control and set). There are 3 different flight modes that you can use depending on your skills.
The Beginner has a stabilized mode – this keeps the mini FPV drone horizontal. And here on the Cetus Pro FPV Kit, the whoop is even supposed to hold altitude! This is relatively new in this class and whether it works well, we can only say when we receive our test model (subscribe to our newsletter – then you will get the info as soon as we have finished the test).
If the “Altitude Hold” really works well, this is really a big plus for FPV beginners. But remember: “Drift” to the sides can then still exist – GPS in the size does not yet exist 😉.
Emergency Landing, Turtle Mode und Full ACRO
I would rather put the “Emergency Landing” function in the category “Marketing Gimmick”: If you want to land the thing, just turn off the motors. The design is known to be almost indestructible.
“Turtle Mode” and Full ACRO are really cool. Here we have arrived to the pros: The former helps turn the drone around when you’re on the ground after a fall. ACRO is the “True FPV” flight mode: loops, rolls, and flips are possible here – if you can master this one, you can actually fly any FPV drone. (Even the DJI FPV in manual mode).
Turtle Mode! (Like the big FPV racers)
Conclusion about the Cetus Pro FPV Kit
Is this the perfect starter kit for a small budget? Yes, it’s very possible! BetaFPV has once again improved its complete package FPV set in details with the Cetus Pro FPV Kit – the controller is fantastic, the goggles OK, the drone with brushless motors and incredible stability dedicated to every crash, finally proper instructions, the configuration for beginners seems successful, and the price is simply right.
Zooming in and maneuvering around the depths of the pool or lake can be a challenge to even the most experienced drone pilots. But with a waterproof FPV drone, you can take the plunge without the worry of any damage to the drone. A waterproof drone is a great option for those who are new to drone flying, as well as those who want a second chance at that perfect shot at the pool or lake. The experts weighed in with their top picks for the best of the best for you to consider. Be sure to read this blog to see the top five waterproof drones.
5. DJI Air 2S Quadcopter Drone
The fifth-placed is DJI air 2s quadcopter drone. It has a tiny body, weighing less than 600 g. Take this all-in-one aerial powerhouse everywhere to explore and document your environment in spectacular detail. Equipped with a 1-inch picture sensor and big 2.4 micrometers pixels. Thanks to a high dynamic range, high resolution and excellent color reproduction. The DJI air 2s is capable of recording every exquisite detail and capturing the fascination of the environment even as it darkens.
DJI Air 2S quadcopter drone with remote control seen from above on a gray stylish modern patterned surface.
4. DJI Mavic Air 2 Quadcopter Drone
The fourth item on the list is the Quadcopter DJI Mavic Ait 2 FPV drone. The Mavic Air 2 takes power and portability to the next level, with sophisticated capabilities in a small package. Aerial masterpieces are now within reach thanks to Its innovative shooting options and superb image quality. A safer, smarter flight allows you to step up your game while totally immersing yourself in the creative process. The Mavic Air 2 takes power and portability to the next level by providing advanced features in a small package.
DJI Mavic Air 2 quadcopter with remote control on a white background.
3. DJI Mini 2 Ultralight and Foldable Drone
The DJI Mini 2 lightweight and foldable drone is the third item on the list. It weighs roughly the same as an apple and fits in the palm of your hand, with a maximum battery life of 31 minutes. The DJI Mini 2 gives you plenty of time to create the ideal photo. A bird’s-eye view of your vacation destination is sure to wow friends and family. A bird’s-eye perspective of your vacation destination will undoubtedly wow friends and relatives. Many people are unable to resist level 5 wins and take off at a maximum height of 4000 meters, and there is a good chance that you will be able to see it.
DJI Mini 2 – Ultralight and Foldable Drone Quadcopter
The DJI Mavic 3 Quadcopter drone comes in second place on the list. Every innovation on the Mavic 3 sets a higher bar for aerial photography by capturing amazing photos with the iconic Hasselblad drone camera and allowing for a smooth flight with omnidirectional obstacle detecting. Fly with the Mavic 3 and discover imagery above all. The aperture may be adjusted to meet the demands of various situations in low-light conditions. When the illumination is adequate, the aperture may be changed to reduce the shutter speed for producing smoother, more natural footage.
Mavic 3 – the newest foldable consumer drone from DJI, featuring the dual Hasselblad camera on a weathered wooden table with the radio controller.
1. DJI Mavic 2 Pro Quadcopter Drone
The DJI Mavic 2 Pro Quadcopter drone leads the list. Previously, active track relied on 2d images from the main camera to track a subject. Now, with active track 2.0, the Mavic 2 maps a 3d view of the environment through the main camera and forward dual vision sensors for greater recognition and accuracy. Trajectory prediction algorithms assist in maintaining tracking when your subject is temporarily blocked by an obstruction when tracking a target.
Overhead view of DJI Mavic 2 pro drone with two spare batteries.
Opinion
Having reached this point, I appreciate you reading this. We care more about your opinion. So if this was useful, please let us know in the comments section. And if you have any questions or inquiries, do get in touch with us via ournewsletter.
One of the biggest and unfortunately most complex issues in the FPV hobby are the radio protocols and their transmitters (controllers, radio) and receivers (the receiving unit on the FPV drone) – that is, the controlling connection between the control unit in your hand and your quad. (Note, this is different from the video feed, which is the connection for the image!).
To be quite honest, I think it’s also one of the most annoying and daunting topics with quite a bit of frustration potential. So it doesn’t have to be that way, if you want to get started as an FPV beginner – read this article!
You must decide which protocol you want to use before making your first purchase.
There is no compatibility among the protocols.
The “binding”, i.e. the connection between the controller and the quad, is often more complicated than one would expect in today world.
Poor protocols lead to many disconnections, and thus crashes.
But for now, let’s get to the good news: Right now (in the year 2022) a lot is happening, so that at least the last point slowly belongs to the past. With ExpressLRS (ELRS), an inexpensive (in terms of hardware costs) and at the same time very stable, long-range protocol has come onto the market, which is about to completely replace the old, inexpensive and unfortunately not very reliable ones (FlySky and FrSky).
Overview of the protocols
Proprietary / Cost / Link table
Protocol
Source code
Link-Quality
Distribution
Ease of Use
Crossfire
❌ Proprietary
✅ Good
✅ High
✅ Go
DSM2 / DSMX
❌ Proprietary
🟡 Medium
❌ Infrequent
🟡 Medium
Express LRS
✅ Open
✅ Good
📈 Increases
❌ Complicated
FlySky
✅ Open
❌ Low
✅ High 📉 Declines
❌ Complicated
FrSky
✅ Open
🟡 Medium
✅ High
❌ Complicated
FrSky R9
✅ Open
✅ Good
❌ Low
❌ Complicated
Ghost
❌ Proprietary
✅ Good
❌ Low
🟡 Medium
Tracer
❌ Proprietary
🟡 Medium
❌ Low
✅ Go
Overview of the different FPV RC Link protocols
The protocols in detail
(From old to new.)
Spektrum DSM2 and Spektrum DSMX – Good old school
It is occasionally seen by some pros and old hands and still has some prevalence in model aviation, but I must confess that we have no own and also no experience in our environment with DSM2 and DSMX. Sorry.
FlySky – The low-cost protocol to start with
FlySky has been the entry point for many people in the FPV business – it simply had the price advantage. But at least as many have then moved on. FlySky has a crappy link. Far away is not possible anyway, but sometimes it just happens that the link is gone and the drone failsafes and drops to the ground.
Due to the extremely low price, FlySky has nevertheless lasted for a long time, but with ELRS, the days that some many people used it may slowly be gone.
FrSky – Bread & Butter RC
FrSky is minimally more expensive than FlySky and also a popular entry-level variant. FrSky’s radios were also long considered the non-plus-ultra in the FPV world. The FrSky Taranis was probably the most constant recommendation before there were game-style controllers.
And FrSky also has much better range and stability than FlySky, but still it is not mid-range and long-range suitable, and link quality and price of installed hardware also had a high correlation.
FrSky and FlySky are quite common in the beginner sector, and yet they are really anything but beginner-friendly. The binding with bridging of pins and simultaneous connection of the battery is only feasible with three hands, and the channel mapping with FrSky you have to have understood first, so that you can set everything correctly in the radio.
Fortunately, there is a lot of help and material about FrSky on the web. Pretty much everyone has had to deal with it at one time or another. However, I think with Express LRS, the days of FrSky (at least the “old” D8 and D12 protocols) are numbered.
FrSky R9 and LR12
There are some newer protocols from FrSky, which are more tailored to the needs of racers and long range. R9 and R9M work with 900MHz.
TBS Crossfire
Crossfire’s link is almost like a cable. Nothing shakes the 900MHz link, for so many who switched from FlySky or FrSky, Crossfire was THE revelation.
If money is not the biggest issue, Crossfire is definitely a very good choice.
Pros: Excellent link, fairly simple setup
Disadvantages: Expensive, large antennas, proprietary
TBS Tracer
Less range than Crossfire but super-low latency due to FLRC: Tracer is the protocol for racers from Team Blacksheep (TBS). But again, the cost is high and antennas and modules are too large for extremely small copters.
ImmersionRC Ghost
ImmersionRC is known in the FPV scene for very good, innovative hardware and has established itself as a technology for racing. And with your “Ghost” protocol no less written on the flags, than to create the egg-laying willow: Lowest latencies for racers with devious 550Hz resolution, Huge ranges over 40Km in 2.4Ghz band, small receiver for whoops, medium for the full power.
And they have done their homework: Ghost is reliable and at home in several “disciplines” at the same time. But expensive and proprietary.
ExpressLRS (ELRS)
Last, but definitely not least: ExpressLRS! ELRS has in a very short time gone from open-source frickel-protocol (“You have to flash the module yourself and build a case”) to the candidate for the new “standard” in FPV: Receiver in all sizes, has an excellent link, low latency and more range than you need for FPV flying, new radios have ELRS mostly already built in and BNF Quads almost always come with an ELRS option. There are different bands (2.4GHz, 900MHz) depending on the application (Racing/Freestyle, Long range) A bit complicated is the setup partly still (keyword OpenTX flashing), but it has especially three huge advantages:
ELRS is open source (not proprietary)
ELRS is an excellent protocol
ELRS is cheap
The latter follows from the former: ExpressLRS was developed open source by the community, and any manufacturer can develop hardware for it license-free. This lowers costs considerably and ensures healthy competition.
What about controllers
FPV RC Module Format: Nano-Module (Lite) and JR Module
If your radio is not internally equipped with the protocol, it is possible to retrofit a module to almost all controllers. For these modules, there are different shaft sizes. Except for a few exotics, there are actually only two common ones: The JR Module Bay and the Nano Module Bay.
Two different sizes to “upgrade” the controller: The JR module on the left and a Nano (Lite) module on the right.
JR modules have two retaining clips on the side and are often the options with the strongest output powers, Nano modules are plugged in and are used primarily for “game controller style” radios.
Firmware: OpenTX and EDGETX
[To be completed]
Multi-protocol Controller
There are a lot of controllers that support multiple protocols. If you already own a few FPV racers with older protocols, you can ensure compatibility with the CC2500 and JP4in1.
Other than that:
Recommended purchase
If you’re new to FPV, there’s one clear buy recommendation: ELRS! ExpressLRS is about to become the new standard for the radio protocol. So if you’re just starting out, get a radio that supports ELRS out of the box and a matching FPV drone with ELRS on board, or upgrade to an ELRS receiver.
Receiver recommendation
ELRS has such a great range that you only need “real” antennas (antennas that protrude visibly from the racer) if you really want to fly far away (long range). For what we normally do – racing and freestyle – a soldered antenna with ELRS is quite sufficient.
A decent brand is BetaFPV, so the two Nano modules can be recommended almost without restrictions:
Very short and to the point, if you’re new to the subject, get a radio with ELRS, and get a RadioMaster. In the past, a controller from FrSky from the Taranis series was almost always recommended (I fly an X-Lite myself), but in the meantime it must be said that the RadioMaster simply offers the better price-performance ratio.
Then you really only have to decide between the design: Gamepad Style Controller or Block.
Radio Master Zorro
With the Zorro, Radiomaster has really created an ingenious overall package for a fantastic price.
For starters, the TX12 is enough, if you are more confident with your ambitions (or simply want to have something that you can sell again well in case of doubt), get the TX16S. This radio is now flown by many professionals.
If you’re reading this, you probably saw a cool FPV video not too long ago and thought: I want that too! You want to know what you need to get started (like a complete FPV beginner package, just the best beginner FPV drone) and get started right away.
Then congratulations, you have found the right page. =)
To get you started: Yes, FPV flying is as awesome as it looks! It takes a lot of practice, but once you know how to control your quad, the immersion with the FPV goggles allows for an almost unbelievable flying experience that is unlike anything else.
If you already own a camera drone like a DJI Mavic, good for you. Then you already know three of four axes on the remote control. But FPV is a whole other level, so you’re almost starting from scratch again. Sorry.
In my previous articles on the “Best Beginner FPV Drone,” I always recommended a fixed combination of drone, goggles, and radio. But in the meantime, there are a lot more options for putting together the necessary stuff for different needs — and of course, there are still complete packages that allow you to fly right out of the box.
That’s why I’ve put together four packages for every budget and taste.
Rough breakdown by budget
The Tiny Whoop package
The serious start – The affordable variant
The serious start -The Pro variant
The expensive DJI variant
What are the differences in the packages?
Very roughly — they differ in how much time you have to put in before you can fly, how much money you like to spend, and how good the drone is 😉 And if we look into more detail:
The first package is really a complete FPV beginner package: you buy the complete package, and it has everything in it that you need. The second and third ‘packages’ are individual parts (drone, radio, goggles, accessories). These two are also the ‘serious’ entry into the hobby. Something you were looking for, right?
And last but not least, despite much hate from the community, I will also include the DJI FPV Combo package. Why it is so controversial, and what the advantages and especially disadvantages of this package for FPV beginners are, I will show you later.
The Tiny Whoop complete package
The advantages of this set are obvious: you have a drone, remote, and goggles in one package. You can unpack that and start flying immediately.
When you see the pictures with the Tiny Whoop (that’s this mini drone with the protection around the propellers), you might think it’s a child’s toy. But it’s far from that. This mini quadcopter has a full-fledged flight controller, the component that allows you to perform the flight maneuvers of a real FPV racer.
And I dare say that every serious FPV pilot has at least one Tiny Whoop at home, with which he flies around indoors in winter. With this small drone (only 7 cm edge length and about 25 g), you can fly indoors and even bump into something. Or let the kids (or girlfriend 😉 ) fly.
In addition, the tiny ones do not make much noise, which is why you can literally fly them anywhere. Take it to the BBQ with your buddies? Fly from in the garden sitting in the Living Room? No problem. The TinyWhoop variant has the charm in its versatility — and you learn everything you need to fly even larger FPV Racing Drones.
Unfortunately, showing spectacular videos to your friends doesn’t work so well because you can’t save the videos to an SD card with the TinyWhoop. So you can only watch it live via the goggles, but not on the PC or similar. But via a ***second, inexpensive pair of goggles, you can also let other people watch FPV — and believe me; your friends will celebrate you for that!
The BetaFPV Whoop Racing Starter Kit — The small drone can do so much more than you expect
With the complete package, you don’t have the entry hurdle with combining components and can start flying right away — and immediately have an awesome flying experience. There is no need for the “binding” that you know from other FPV drones, which can be really tedious.
And the small Tiny Whoops are controlled just like the big ones: In fact, it’s the same remotes and radio protocols that are being used. If you can master the small one, you can fly a big one. So, the Tiny Whoop is perfect for getting started.
And by the way, you can use the radio remote and goggles included in this package for a larger FPV drone if you want to upgrade.
The serious beginner package — The affordable variant
Okay, this is where it gets serious: The iFlight Nazgul is a 5″ drone. This is the “standard” for FPV racing drones. Here you get the classic flight physics, and you can mount a GoPro and make those cool videos you know from YouTube.
Clearly speaking, this is not a “complete package.” It is an assembly list. You still have the task of buying the individual parts and putting them together.
Many would say, “Why don’t you get a decent remote and practice with a simulator first to see if that’s for you?” — And they’re definitely not wrong about that. But if you’re like me, you really want to get your hands on something right away.
And you want to keep it affordable. But you should still be aware that you can’t get started right away: A little practice on the simulator is necessary before your first flight (but that works with the radio that I recommend here in the package), and also a little preparation is necessary: Read how to charge the batteries, connect the radio with the drone (binding) and a few things more.
The iFlight Nazgul5 quadcopter comes assembled and is a price-performance hit.
But this package here is the solid base that will get you into the FPV world. All the components are good and really worth the money — and over time, you will crash so hard that you will have to change not only the propeller but also the motor. This is “part of the game,” and even if you can’t imagine it today — you are serious about it, the soldering iron will become your friend for sure. =)
Short info about Banggood: The store with a name that would do honor to a porn movie site may seem a little suspicious to you now — but Banggood is a real player in the FPV sector. And the site of the store is also more reliable than it seems at first.
For the Chinese manufacturers (yes, most of the FPV sector comes from China), Banggood is THE dealer. If you get into FPV, you will definitely have a lot to do with Banggood. And I’m very happy with Banggood as a supplier so far. The delivery times are long (2-3 weeks is standard), but the prices are very good. And even the service is satisfactory. If something doesn’t arrive properly, you often have to upload proof in the form of a video or picture, then you get a replacement sent if you have a legitimate claim. At least that’s how it’s always been for me.
If you’ve been paying attention, you’ll immediately see that we’re looking at the same FPV drone like the one below in the much more expensive Digital package. Why? Because iFlight has created a real price-performance monster with the Nazgul.
Ever since the extremely critical FPV legend Mr. Steele flew the Nazgul (although he actually only wanted the camera) and rated it good, there are hardly any dissenting voices. It’s just a good quad. Period.
For really good videos, you can mount a GoPro on top. Unfortunately, the small GoPro Session is no longer available — So, 5″ (the size of the propellers and the classification) is necessary to carry the bigger cam.
And the Nazgul carries that GoPro through the air in a truly impressing way. It’s a neatly assembled package of good motors, a decent stack with a flight controller, VTX, and receiver.
Eachine EV800D (FPV goggles)
Since we are here for an affordable FPV setup, we’re using an analog signal. Now we are looking for FPV goggles. A good compromise between quality and price is the boxed goggles, i.e., goggles with a large screen that is a bit wider in front of the eyes.
The Eachine boxed goggle is ugly but does a decent job without costing too much.
The EV800D model recommended here has a few years under its belt but is still in demand, and for a good reason: diversity receiver for a good picture, a DVR to record the flights (very important to determine the location for recovery after a crash), ease of use, and a nice second life as an external monitor (the “glasses frame” is removable) for guests and when tinkering if you do want to upgrade.
With the radio, you specify which protocol you want to fly with. The radio remote control and the receiver in the racing drone must speak the same language. FlySky is an even cheaper protocol than FrSky (i.e., the radio and receiver are cheaper), but I want to use FrSky as the minimum because of the reliability and range. There are other protocols for long-range (flying extremely far away), but here you also need other video equipment, etc.
The budget model Taranis X9 Lite from FrSky
In any case, FrSky has built up a widespread and reliable fleet of remotes with the Taranis series, and the FrSky Taranis Lite recommended here is really solid for a very reasonable price.
One more thing: Almost all remote controls run with “OpenTX” — this is the operating system and the quasi-standard in the FPV area. Unfortunately, I find it anything but intuitive to use, but since it is so widespread, you can also find a forum post or a YouTube video for every question.
If you really have to watch every dime, there is a cool option even in the FrSky world: The BetaFPV Lite SE is a real FrSky radio (above from the Whoop package), but without display, and it can only connect to one copter. And it works on the simulator too. =)
My girlfriend still flies the BetaFPV Lite with her current FPV racing drone. I myself have a FrSky X-Lite — mainly because I can fly many different models with it, and I like the “controller style.”
With the two FrSky radio remote controls, however, it should be said that a bit of training is required here: You have to “bind,” i.e., connect the radio with the quadrocopter or the receiver — and this is unfortunately not as intuitive as it should be. But with a YouTube search and a little patience, you can get there.
With real FPV racing drones, you only have very short flight times. Here it is so 3-8 minutes, depending on whether you’re leisurely cruising or “Send it” =)
In the package, we have selected the 4S. So 4 cells per battery. Currently, 6S are also very common (there, you must then also have the motors with suitable Volts on the quad), but the performance advantages for beginners are hardly noticeable. And 6S is just significantly more expensive (both the LiPos and the chargers).
A Tattu 4S 1300mAh LiPo battery where you can clearly see the 4 cells
Another important thing: LiPos, i.e., lithium-polymer batteries, is a completely different matter than lithium-ion batteries. Even small damages can make them a fire hazard. Please take the time and read up a bit or watch a video on YouTube on the subject!
LiPo Charger: ISDT 608AC Battgo Lipo Charger AC / DC
The battery charger is really cheap when you consider that you get a charger from ISDT, including a detachable power supply (Yes, charger and power supply separately are in FPV what normal). I have it and do not want to miss it anymore. Not the fastest, but very compact and just really mature – as you are used to from ISDT.
I got by for the first few years with a very simple Charsoon “Balance Loader.” It is certainly not so cool for the LiPos, but if every euro counts, you get along with it in any case and your racing drone in the air.
However, if you want to impress with awesome FPV videos with this package, you’ll have to add a GoPro. The FPV feed, which you can see on the goggles, is enough to fly (and get your adrenaline pumping) but just too low quality for outsiders (reminiscent of 80s VHS tapes).
However, the Nazgul has more than enough power to move a GoPro through the air — and a suitable mount for the GoPro is already included.
The serious FPV beginner’s package: The “digital” variant
OK. Now we are at the “serious digital variant.” Here you have to be ready to spend a four-digit amount. But the visual experience is a completely different dimension to the FPV beginner package above.
The iFlight Nazgul5 HD v2 as a 6S variant — This thing convinces and puts the DJI in its place.
Here, we don’t use the “old” analog technology for transmitting the image to the goggles while flying (which is still used in the high-end sector — do not misunderstand) – but here we’re the proprietary digital technology from the ‘camera drone’ top dog company DJI. That said, the drone is from iFlight, but the goggles and radio are from DJI.
DJI has brought a product to the FPV racing drone space that has really shaken up the scene, called the ‘DJI Digital FPV System.’ It’s a closed system, meaning you’re largely reliant on DJI’s products, and there’s no alternative — but the digital image is really awesome. DIJ in the FPV world is like Apple to computers: you’re trapped in their world, but the product works very well.
Even the hypercritical “homebuilt-only” Mr. Steele likes the Nazgul
The digital image in the goggles is killer, the range with the DJI system is incredible — and there’s no need for a bunch of configuration and customizing since the radio works out of the box. You don’t have to read into additional things like transmission protocols.
Since we are in the performance package, we also need descent LiPos that fulfill their purpose as “ultra-high-discharge” devices. Lithium polymer batteries that enable full performance with extremely high voltage and extremely high discharge currents.
Tattu R-Line LiPo — enough power to start a car engine
LiPos are such a topic of their own, and over time even individual packs gain your affection, despite having three identical ones next to them. Each pack is a bit individual, needs care (how you charge it, what voltage you store it at, etc.), and when buying it, you can often only rely on the manufacturer’s reputation. But there is a kind of consensus with the batteries from Tattu (which were also recommended above), only this one is two cells more (6S) and in the professional version: Tattu R-Line (“R” like Race). With the 120C, you can start a car without problems.
As with the package above, I also recommend ISDT here — just a bit bigger, so parallel charging is also possible. And also, with a built-in power supply – I find that simply more practical.
The D2 charger from ISDT has two slots and plenty of power
Let’s talk about the Elephant in the Room: DJI FPV Combo. As the introduction of the DJI FPV system (which we use in the package above) hadn’t already caused enough controversy in the FPV world. The DJI FPV Combo with the DJI FPV Drone splits the community into two almost irreconcilable camps.
The DJI FPV Combo Drone – All there, but very fragile.
I’ll try to summarize the most important things about the DJI FPV complete package:
Is this the fastest way to get started with FPV? => YES!
Expensive => YES!
Is the DJI FPV Combo worth the price => YES and NO!
Is DJI’s FPV Drone stable enough for an FPV racer => NO! (Not kidding, this thing breaks: if you want to fly close to objects – and you do if you want to do FPV “the right way” – this thing will explode faster than you can say [insert something random here]).
Can I save a lot of time with research, building and customization => YES!
Can I slowly “work my way up” flight-wise if I’m a beginner / already have a DJI drone => YES!
Do I pay exorbitant prices for the batteries (but they are safer) and other accessories => YES!
Do I get the convenience I expect, like “return to home”, “unpack and go” or an “emergency pause” button? => YES!
Do I get fantastic range and very long flight times for an FPV racer? => YES!
Do I give up the openness to use different systems, can I no longer repair myself, thus betraying a little the basic values of the RC / FPV world and put myself in the dependence of a single manufacturer? => YES!
Is this the best package on the market for cinematic shots with dynamics? => YES!
The DJI FPV Combo can clearly claim victory in terms of beginner-friendliness
IIf you now say to yourself: I have the money and want to fly FPV as fast as possible, this is certainly a good option. And the DJI FPV Combo certainly has the best recording capacities “out of the box” that you can wish for.
With the upper Nazgul packages, you first have to mount a GoPro and edit with tools like ReelSteady Pro to get to that level. And for the world between DJI camera drone footage and hardcore FPV footage, i.e., “cinematic FPV,” the DJI FPV Combo is unbeaten. And here, you can have unbelievably long flight times compared to approximate flight characteristics of a classic FPV drone paired with a smart camera.
However, suppose you are interested in racing, flying through forests and abandoned buildings, or proximity (flying extremely close to objects and buildings or just above the ground). In that case, this probably isn’t the way to go. One crash, and you’re in full dependency on DJI repair. With the iFlights from above, you have to be able to break something in the first place (the carbon frames can take an incredible beating), and if you do, you’ll quickly learn how to replace a motor or arm on your own.
If you don’t want that (self-repair) but want a real FPV RTF set (“Ready to Fly,” i.e., an FPV drone complete set with goggles) without reading up on radio protocols, LiPo batteries, etc. — then there is almost only the DJI option. And compared to the TinyWhoop complete package (also ready to fly), the DJI complete system can record awesome videos, while the TinyWhoop is only there for the fun of flying.
As I said, this is almost a matter of faith — for some, it is the best FPV drone for beginners; for others a crime against the hobby. You have to decide for yourself.
YES, MAN!!! THIS is actually the real right way to go in FPV. Simulator practice, then build it yourself. And there I would also rely on local stores to buy the parts – you have an entirely different contact and delivery time, if something may not be OK.
Keywords
FPV Drone Complete Set
FPV Drone Complete Set with Goggles
FPV Drone Beginner
Best FPV Drone for Beginners
The predecessor (2023) of the “Best entry-level drone.”
The HGLRC XJB-145 with a GoPro SessionThe HGLRC XJB-145 – For me, the best entry-level drone 2023My XJB-145 ate a little dirt
Rotor Riot has released a new 3 “frame: the Ummagawd Acrobrat . And the frame inspires!
Who is the “Umagawd Acrobrat” designer Tommy Tibajia?
Tommy Tibajia – better known by his pilot name Ummagawd (wonderful phonetic wordplay btw!) Is probably one of the most famous pilots on the FPV scene with Rotor Riot . Especially because he faces up to any challenge and if it is possible somehow masters (remember the Duga Dive ?).
Besides, he was always very tech-savvy and made some of the nicest build videos, flew in the DRL and starred in many Rotor Riot videos.
And lately? He has gone under the frame designers and brought to the market one of the most-discussed and most popular freestyle ramen in the remix.
Rotor Riot operates the 3 “hype with the Ummagawd Acrobrat
I myself am a big fan of the 3 “class: The HGLRC XJB-145 is currently my favorite racer and I think the 3 inch FPV quads are the most versatile quads. It is possible to bring them under the magical 250g but you can also strap on a GoPro session – besides they are usually very sturdy and not as loud as bigger ones and parts and lipo batteries are significantly cheaper than the big 5 inch FPV drones.
With the Ummagawd Acrobrat, Rotor Riot now serves this “up-and-coming” class and I’m really looking forward to seeing more movement.
3 “never looked so good
What is so special about the Ummagawd Acrobrat?
Unlike most of the frames on the market, Rotor Riot (or Tommy Tibajia) has given the Ummagawd Acrobat some special features that I like very well:
First, it is the reinforced frame – with its additional bracing on the front and rear, the Acrobrat should be particularly stable. And I think that you can see the frame too. Unfortunately, this is also due to a fairly high weight of 54g.
On the other hand, it is the long, flat construction adopted from the remix , in which the 20x20mm components are installed one behind the other and not stacked in a stack.
This ensures that the LiPo battery almost moves between the propellers and thus the mass is closer to the center , which provides better flight characteristics. Exactly this point I find really exciting and innovative.
The distributed stack at Ummagawd Acrobrat
Technical specifications
Diagonal: 163mm
Motor Position : True X
Motor Distance : 115mm
Frame Size: 141x141mm
Frame Height: 55.5mm
Weight = 54g
Should I buy the Ummagawd Acrobrat? Price in Germany
I like the Acrobrat sucker. So really good. And I’m thinking of building an FPV racing drone based on the frame.
If not the price. The Acrobrat costs until he is in Germany 60-70 euros, and that’s a pretty bang for a small 3 inch frame.
But I’m up for the build. What do you all mean? Should I get him?
Rotor Riot Acrobat Build List
OK, let me plan what I could block for parts. I think I can still use a little help:
