Yup, those of you who don’t live under a rock may already have noticed: TikTok is the social network of the moment and is growing at a really rapid pace. No “technology” in human history has ever spread as fast as TikTok.
TikTok reaches one billion users after only 3 years (currently 1.4 billion)
FPVTok – The niche for FPV drones
The unbelievable amount of content and the matching algorithm stood out: everyone can find their niche here. Or rather, it is found for you.
And what then, of course, must not be missing: FPV Racer, found under the hashtag #FPV!
Our first FPV TikTok 😉
We dared to do it, too, and have remained close to the “origins”: Very short and adapted to the sample:
Small and lightweight cameras are in high demand for First-person view. But usually it means either heavy, or poor image quality. RunCam wants to fill the gap with the Runcam Thumb Pro.
The RunCam Thumb was quite a success – but the video quality was criticized. The Runcam Pro starts exactly there. And of course with 4K.
The RunCam Thumb Pro as a solution for extremely light builds
The RunCam Thumb Pro is much lighter than an Insta360 Go2 / Caddx Peanut (weigh 27g) with only 16g. Unfortunately, no price is known yet (will probably be more than the 60-70 euros of the Thumb) – only the manual and drivers can be found on the website.
But we will add everything here as soon as there is more info!
When I started working with Multicopters in the spring of 2018, I didn’t realize the extent of what I was getting into. My first purchase was a used DJI Phantom 3 Standard bought on eBay. Great part, great shots. Great experience the first time it took off, easy and trouble-free operation, just like the following DJI radio – also a used part from eBay for relatively small money in excellent condition. I still use both to this day for great landscape shots.
The first Race Copter
In the fall, interest in Race Copters grew. A few YouTube videos tipped the scales. The beginning was a Eachine Wizard 220S, ready built, already bound, with a FlySky radio. Naive as I was at the time, it all seemed quite simple. No idea about Betaflight, the LiPo went to the copter, the remote switched on, automatically connected and poof the thing was in the air. A sublime moment. But not for long. Unaware of the handling, the part disappeared uncontrollably between the vines in Acro mode – much to the astonishment of the farmer who just drove by with his tractor. The joy of an easy takeoff was gone. At least I had plenty of fresh air and had to cover many, many meters to find the Wizard.
Then just smaller
Okay, I thought. What doesn’t work on a large scale should work on a small scale. As a result, a BetaFPV 65 1S, a BetaFPV 85 1S and, for the sake of completeness, a BetaFPV 65 2S and a BetaFPV 85 2S moved into my office. Now fully infected and inspired by successful flight attempts, I started to build my first multicopters myself. I have had very good experience with two Eachine Tyro99. Equipped with F4 boards and a 3 or 4S LiPo, they are in my opinion an excellent start for beginners. By building the complete kit yourself, you get deeper into the matter, and the soldering skills from my first job as an electrical engineer came to my aid. Furthermore, two Eachine TS215 followed, which I also bought used on eBay. Both well under 100 Euro, little to no flying. After the first real crash, a revision was necessary. So completely disassembled, re-soldered and reassembled, motors replaced with the original parts, at least one of them is still in service today and serves as a test object for new flight experiments.
From a hobby to an addiction
In the meantime, the tentative hobby became an addiction. A LDARC 200 GT was still needed. Cool part. Small, agile, ideal for freestyle. Goes great with 4S and the standard 2500 KV engines. In the early summer of 2019, followed a TBS SOURCE ONE. Also used with a F4 board all-in-one from Joshua Bardwell, with TBS Ethix Mr. Steele Stout Motor V2 1700K and the TBS Unify Pro Race 5.8 GHz VTX already results in a good flight pattern, even for a beginner. Very smooth. And three weeks ago it was time. As addicted to the Marmotte hype as many others, it arrived from China after 7 days.
Equipped with a CL Racing F4S board, Armattan Underdog 2150 KV motors, DShot 30 Amps BLHeli, and TBS Unify Pro 5G8 HV Race VTX and a Foxeer Predator Mini. It came disassembled in two separate shipments – because of customs (which by the way worked perfectly fine – was a recommendation from the terrific Armattan support). So I was allowed to assemble it. A highlight. Super tidy. Great workmanship and in my opinion worth every penny. But that’s just my Sunday flyer ;-).
I should mention for completeness that I have tried all remotes. FlySky, Devo7 and FrSky Taranis QX7. I am stuck with the latter. I find them simply great. Settings and handling – perfect. Meanwhile, I have changed all receivers to the non-EU FrSky version and fly only with the Taranis (is also a non-EU model). And with Betaflight 4.0 I am now also best friends ;-).
As FPV goggles, I use the FatShark Dominator V3.
For the beginners
Props off!
So and finally a few words of warning to the beginners. I have already suffered a few injuries in the meantime. Your own fault. Stupidity. Huge marks on my shin and permanent scars on my face. KEEP YOUR PROPS OFF! Without exception. And even if it is “only” a BetaFPV 65. Even that one makes nasty quirks. I didn’t believe it, either. But man apparently learns only through pain alone.
Fashion that makes the fun
After a year, I’m still a rookie, although I now fly one to one and a half hours every day in all weather (except rain). Contrary to the usual recommendations, I started in stabilized mode and have now arrived at “free” flying. The first Flips and Rolls were already an awesome experience. For me, this sequence was fine. For someone else, it might be better to start in Acro-mode right away. I honestly don’t know. The main thing is, it’s fun. Either way.
Patience, rules and LiPo’s =)
Take care of your LiPo’s. Dispose of damaged ones as well as extremely inflated ones. Tip: Leave them outdoors in a metal bucket with water for two days. Then they are guaranteed, discharged and harmless. Please do not dispose of them in the household waste garbage can! Buy a LiPo case. The RO-Safety LiPo safe – transport and charging case from Robbe is perfect (can also be gladly another supplier). The commercially available cases can only withstand the high temperatures of a battery fire to a limited extent, according to experience.
Be patient! No master has fallen from the sky yet (at most, once an aviator). Daily training is still too little. Watch the videos on YouTube, especially those of Joshua Bardwell. You can learn a lot. And practice, practice, practice. If you can’t do this one hour a day, you should stay away from the hobby. Besides the time it takes, it’s really expensive at some point. It’s money badly spent if you throw the stuff in the corner after three months and a few hundred euros.
Stick to the rules! Yes, I know. Then it’s no fun. Yes, it is. I’ve discovered some brilliant spots near me after some searching. Often I met the landowners by chance, asked them if it is a problem for them if I fly there, and the answers surprised me again and again. In every man there is a play child ;-). Great interest and permission were the result. Where it becomes unreasonably difficult to get a permit, it’s not an issue. In an old factory building ready for demolition, you usually don’t have to and can’t ask anyone. But our farmers understandably don’t like it when you trample the field looking for your crashed copter. So ask. Asking costs nothing.
FPVRacingDrone.de—This article is about racing drones and racing quadcopters, which are flown with the help of goggles from the first-person-view (FPV). On these pages you will find everything you need to get started in this fantastic hobby. Here you will learn how to get started, what to buy, what goes together and how to take the first steps.
Firstly, racing drones only have a lot in common with the well-known camera drones such as DJI (Phantom, Mavic Pro or Air) at first glance. Racing quadcopters are much more agile and faster than a static camera drone (camera drones are for beginners 😂). But the racing drone is also totally dependent on the pilot: No GPS keeps the device on the spot and when the pilot lets go of the control sticks, it usually just goes downhill with the thing.
But the FPV goggles and the associated perspective together with the performance (which is achieved by absolutely uncompromising performance components such as high-KV brushless motors, ESCs, flight controllers and high-discharge LiPos) make for a unique experience.
A little taste test? Here first FPV:
And then again LOS (Line Of Sight) without glasses – sound on!
Interested? 😉
OK! So here on FPVRacingDrone.de you get questions answered like:
What do I need for my first FPV flight?
What is the best way to start? (Simulator or directly with a quad?)
FPV racing is a bit challenging. There are also many stumbling blocks. But the pages here should help all beginners to get some of them out of the way.
And when you’ve done it, it opens up one of the coolest hobbies and experiences known to man. FPV Racer flying is awesome!
To get started with FPV racing drone flying, the simulator (a software that looks like a game – but has extremely realistic flight behavior) is particularly well suited.
To get started with the simulator, you only need two things: the simulator itself (i.e. the software) and a “radio” – the radio remote control. You can use this later to control your real drones. If you start with simulators, you can save a bunch of money that you would have spent on wrecked drones in the learning process.
What do you understand below, “Getting started with FPV simulator”?
Actually, exactly what is written above. That you just do not start with a real FPV drone, but with the radio and software. This is mainly to avoid the frustration when you start with FPV and only crashing is and so quickly loses the desire because the material is damaged, or you just do not get together “air time”. And you can see if this “FPV thing is something for you at all”.
However, this does not mean that it is now forbidden to buy a quad. On the contrary, I would even recommend buying a Tiny-Whoop package (look here) and practice with this spark on the simulator.
Others say: Only 5″ racers are the “true” FPV and therefore buy nothing but a really good (expensive) remote control and learn first ONLY on the simulator, then buy the parts and build your 5″ yourself. Works too – you have to decide for yourself.
FPV Racing Simulators
FPV drones have slowly arrived, and there are now even a considerable number of simulators, so you can pick one to your liking. Some are more realistic, some are cheaper, some are more fun. My recommendation is at the bottom of the text.
What almost all of them have in common (except Velocidrone) is that they run on Steam. If you don’t know Steam – it’s a gaming platform where you can download various games. Downloadable from SteamPowered.com
DRL – The Drone Racing League Simulator
The DRL is known to many from television. It is one of the biggest racing leagues, has made FPV racing known to a wide mass and even has its own special FPV racers. And of course this league has its own simulator.
To fly in the DRL, you can even qualify via the simulator!
The simulator of the DRL is also the gateway to the league
The DRL Sim is in any case extremely popular and many praise especially the realistic propwash behavior. For under 10 euros definitely one of the best sims.
The Drone Champions League (DCL) is not as bling-bling as the DRL, flies “normal” FPV racing drones, and of course has its own simulator. The bling-bling is made up for in the sim, though: the DCL feels more “arcade”: The graphics are awesome, the effects opulent, the quads partly from the league, partly like from a manga comic, the tracks partly original tracks of the DCL, partly awesome, creative maps just for the sim. But even if the controls are quite realistic, the “Moon Gravity” (i.e. the drone falls too slowly), which increases the fun of the game, especially for beginners, makes many turn up their noses.
Chrissi on the DCL simulator
DCL is the most game, costs a bit more and has the least claims to “realistic simulator” in this list. Nevertheless, I have to say that the DCL simulator is the most fun, many of the world’s elite pilots are also at the start, and you can fly directly against their ghosts. I like!
Lifoff is probably “the classic” among simulators: it was one of the first and has gotten many features over time. It is very realistic and has nice routes, but from today’s point of view it seems a bit stiff to me and not as “polished” as the sims of the couches. Still the simulator with my most flying hours.
Velocidrone is also an original and developed from an open source project. It is only available on its own servers, and Velocidrone’s overall feel is a bit more awkward, and the graphics are not quite as exciting. A bit the opposite of DCL.
VelociDrone – The Pro-Sim
Nevertheless, Velocidrone is THE simulator for many professionals, it is praised by almost everyone for the most realistic flight behavior and with appropriate tuning in-game you get the most likely replica of your own drone.
Velocidrone is cult – has a huge fan base and many plugins to buy like the one for TinyWhoops (Yes, this is probably THE sim for TinyWhoops).
FPV Freerider Recharged is the successor and has much more elaborate graphics (is even quite demanding on the hardware) and also costs a bit more. Freerider has its own niche, as it runs everywhere, Freerider Recharged goes down a bit. But it’s still nice, especially for high-end phones:
The makers of one of the best analog goggles, Orqa, have built a really neat FPV simulator. And this one is for free! I’ve only had a quick look – but for people who pay attention to every euro, this is definitely a cool option!
I’m sure I’m a bit lonely in the FPV scene, but I recommend the DCL Simulator for beginners! Why? Simply because it is the most fun & motivating. In my opinion, this is more important than realistic gravity modeling.
If the computer is not powerful enough, then take FPVFreerider. And if it gets “serious” later, check Velocidrone, without money FPV.SkyDive.
Radio remote controls for FPV racers
It may be worth spending a lot of money on the spark, since you won’t have to change it later on when your hobby grows on you, and you control your full-grown racing quadcopter with it.
“Remote controls for FPV racers” is of course a topic which is discussed here in great detail.
Which spark should I get for the simulator?
But if you want to have a recommendation right now, which is cool for simulators practice and with which you can still do something later, I would recommend the BetaFPV LiteRadio 2 SE ELRS. Since you do nothing wrong at first, and the price is really fair (yes, sparks can be VERY expensive).
Cheap, cool for the simulator and your first FPV drone: LiteRadio 2 SE ELRS from BetaFPV
Can you also fly with an XBox or Playstation controller simulator?
Mobile FPV training with FPV Freerider (see above) and a console controller
In principle, this is possible. Most modern controllers like the Sony DualSense or Xbox Elite Series 2 have drivers for the computer and can thus also be used for the simulator. Nevertheless, it is not quite as recommended, because:
The side with “Throttle” has no spring in a normal spark. I.e. it is not pulled to the center.
The analog sticks of console controllers have only a very short travel, i.e. are not as precise as a real remote control for FPV drones (there’s already a reason why those are used 😉
For point 1, you should switch to “3D Mode” when using console controllers: Then the zero point of the throttle is in the middle and you accelerate with “up”. This costs even more precision, but throttle zero at the bottom and spring in the middle at throttle 50 is quite strange. With 3D mode clearly better!
Tasks
Start game and improve lap times. =) To keep the learning curve steep, switch from “Self-Leveling Mode” to “Acro Mode” as soon as possible. I.e. as soon as you have understood which lever on the remote control does what. Because only in “Acro-Mode” the full three-dimensional control of the racing quad is possible. Acro mode (which, by the way, stands for “acrobatic” and not for an aggressive flying style ;-)) is also what makes the essential difference between a racecopter and a camera drone like a DJI Mavic. And yes, it is so hard to fly “Acro” in the beginning. So you have to put in 10-20 flying hours until you master it.
A very young category in FPV, but probably the one with the biggest social impact: CineWhoops. Hardly any sporting event, Red Bull campaign, car commercial or Hollywood movie today can do without action-packed FPV images from a racing drone, and these are mostly CineWhoops.
What exactly are CineWhoops? What do you need to know if you want to fly a CineWhoop yourself? How you can earn money with it and which exciting models are currently available? You can find all that out here.
The DJI Avata has made the CineWhoop sector interesting, especially for beginners, with this complete package.
What is a CineWhoop?
Very briefly: CineWhoops (or HD Whoop or CineDrone) are small quadrocopters with propeller protection which are flown FPV (First Person View – i.e. from the perspective of the drone via goggles) and can record in HD.
The “history” of CineWhoops
At the very beginning was the TinyWhoop. A toy class quadcopter, those little drones with ducts/propguards (the rings around the propellers), but unlike the toy quads it has a real flight controller that lets it fly acro and has a receiver that connects to your real radio.
The next “escalation class” then came with the Brushless Whoop. In this article here, I wrote about the TinyHawk and the Mobula7, the small gamechangers for winter fun.
CineWhoops as Tiny Brushless Whoops with HD Camera
What has always been a shame about TinyWhoops: You couldn’t take an additional camera with you for YouTube-ready footage. But that changed with new split cameras:
RunCam brought the RunCam Split to the market. An FPV camera that could simultaneously supply the FPV feed, but also record in HD to a microSD along with the associated circuit board. Caddx followed suit with the Caddx Turtle and RunCam and eliminated the biggest shortcoming with the RunCam Mini: the circuit board shrunk and thus it was suddenly possible to bring HD recording into extremely small and lightweight quads. The Tiny CineWhoop was born.
One of the first Tiny Cinewhoops: Happymodel Mobula7 HD – not even 10cm long
What quickly became clear: The coolest thing about this class is the human-compatibility of brushless micros in combination with HD recording. This opened up completely new possibilities for videos, even if they are probably still not allowed everywhere.
From Tiny CineWhoop to GoPro CineWhoop
However, the HD capacities were not sufficient for “professional” recordings: Especially the emerging stabilization from GoPros was missing. But since the whoops with their ducts (the ring around the propellers) were simply better received by the people who were to be recorded, and since they have a much lower risk of injury than open propellers, the path was clear: with ducts, as small as possible, but already capable of carrying a decent camera.
One of the first 3″ Cinewhoops: Shendrones Squirt
Quickly landing on a consensus of about 3″ Ducted Quads – these FPV drones are loud, but small enough for exciting gaps and thrilling indoor shots. At the same time, you can get up close to people, and especially in the sports, athletes and audiences were excited about the new dimension in video.
Then another improvement came quickly: with a normal GoPro, the 3″ were no longer what you’d call an FPV Racing Drone in terms of flight characteristics – too heavy for the small motors, too hard a battle with the weight of the GoPro. SO what could you do? Slim down the GoPro! The naked GoPro was born, a strpped GoPro reducing the weight, bringing agility back to the 3″ GoPro CineWhoop class.
DJI vs. Standard
Meanwhile, DJI has also jumped on the Cinewhoops hype: The DJI Avata is a classic 3″ pusher (i.e. the propellers are pointed downwards). Nevertheless, the Avata is a great exception, because:
The “normal” CineWhoops are FPV racers, which are built on standardized parts. You can use different parts from different manufacturers. Different goggles, different radio. Different batteries for more or less power, and weight. However, this requires a lot of training, and also (or especially) the flying skills needs a lot of time to develop until you have it.
The DJI Avata has everything altogether in one nice pack, the goggles and image quality are incredibly good, and also for flying there are beginner modes and a stop button called “Emergency Break” that stops the FPV drone immediately. It costs more, and the LiPo batteries are also outrageously expensive – but for many, this is probably the fastest way to fly CineWhoops or get into the FPV world in general.
The stretched term “CineWhoop” today
Today, the term has expanded a bit: Meanwhile, everything in the FPV field that is primarily designed for video and cinematic (as opposed to focusing on flight performance) is actually called a CineWhoop.
Even 6 propeller monsters – tricopters with gyro, red camera and especially without ducts like from Nurk are called “CineWhoop” by many today. Because “Cine” just, like Cinematic, and Whoop, because Whoop is a FPV term I suppose? =) Actually, the term Cinelifter, CineQuad, Cinecopter, or for Nurkallas thing Cinetricopter would be more correct, but with CineWhoop everybody knows what is meant.
NurkFPV’s sick Moneyshot Cinetricopter with Ronin Gyro
How do I learn how to fly a CineWhoop?
From the controlling standpoint and the components used, a CineWhoop is no different from an FPV Racing Quad. Here at FPVRacingDrone.com you will find everything you need to know to get started!
If you’re coming from the DJI camp (DJI Mavic, DJI Mini, Mavic Air), you have a bit of a head start like that you know the controls on the controller and which axis is doing what. But as far as flying goes, you’re still at the beginning. Acro flying (“manual” at DJI) takes a bunch of practice.
If you’re up for that, sign up for the newsletter below, and you’ll get the beginner’s book “8 Steps to becoming an FPV Pilot” with it and then check out the articles here (So far only the german Version – I’ll do the translations ASAP:
How can I make money flying FPV (flying CineWhoop)?
Can you do that? Oh yes!!! FPV videos are so incredibly hot – and there are still only a few who can make it happen. So if you have collected some skills, you can offer your services. Even if you’re just starting out, it’s easy to gain experience with pro bono jobs. Pretty much every gym and restaurant wants a nice video of their space. So sign up directly to the job board!
Where can I get CineWhoop / FPV videos produced for my business?
You can find that here too 😉 But this is also aiming for the German market for now – let me know if you’re interested in an international version!
SO, but now to the CineQuads / CineWhoops themselves. As always, there is no such thing as “the best one”. Because whether you want to fly across the table between two people in a café or whether you want to chase a drifting Porsche: different applications need different tools. That’s why we want to give you a few recommendations by class:
Tiny CineWhoops
3″ Class
Open class
The best Tiny CineWhoops
The small speedsters were not only the “first ChineWhoops” – even today, this is probably the size with the greatest fun factor. Why? Because you can simply fly them anywhere, anytime. At home, at a friend’s house, outside… the Tiny CineWhoops are so small and “do no harm” – but you have to make a few sacrifices in the recording quality.
For the models below if you buy them, you will need to choose a radio protocol (depending on the controller) and get additional batteries. For FPV flying, you will, of course, need analog FPV goggles.
Eachine Cinefun
Eachine is not exactly known for the highest quality models, but with the CineFun, Eachine has made a big hit: Perfect flight performance for a 75 Tiny CineWhoop, and that with only 1S! There is also a 4K version with the Loris – my wife flies it, it’s a banger!
Our Eachine CineFun has seen many countries and survived crashes
Whereas I find 4K exaggerated (you can upscale in case of doubt) – here the lack of stabilization and the missing ND filter are more noticeable. It’s also a bit more expensive than a normal Eachine, but still cheap overall for what it offers. Check out the prices here:
While the Cinefun is still very reminiscent of a TinyWhoop, the iFlight CineBee looks more like a minimized freestyle quad. This is mainly due to the carbon frame and the top-mount option for the LiPo. However, the additional weight is noticeable compared to the Cinefun.
As mentioned above, the 3 inchers (3″ is the diameter of the propellers) have emerged as the golden mean of CineWhoops. Small enough for indoors and gaps, strong enough to carry a GoPro, protected by ducts, and really acrobatic with a naked GoPro – a little bit of everything.
One manufacturer that has even excelled is iFlight – and they have even degraded the duct to a mere protective ring on some CineWhoop frames. Usually, the duct is mainly there to make motors more efficient by compressing the airflow. However, since the ducts can become quite heavy on the larger copters, they are often reduced to a thin ring and used only as protection.
But now to the best CineWhoops:
iFlight ProTek35
iFlight ProTek35
The developers at iFlight have hit a nerve and created the right mix of weight, performance and handling with the ProTeks (there is a 3.5″ and a 2.5″ version). The two ProTek are available for DJI as well as in much cheaper analog versions:
DJI has brought the topic of CineWhoops to the masses. The DJI Avata is also an exception in this overview. With this product, you give up the openness to use products from other manufacturers via standards (LiPo batteries, controllers, goggles) – you have to rely on DJI and their prices.
DJI Avata
On the other hand, you get a perfectly coordinated package for a lot of money and save a lot of time reading into stuff. What advantages and disadvantages of such a package are, you can read very well in the beginner article about the DJI FPV Combo.
If you want the fastest approach into Cinewhoops, here it is:
And iFlight is represented twice in this category because in addition to the ProTek series, there is also the BumbleBee. I find the name really fitting: The frame in yellow-black is just a bit thicker, and in the air the “bumblebee” also makes a somewhat ponderous impression.
iFlight BumbleBee
But actually, it is quite close to FPV maneuver and has many plus points in “acceptance”, since the propellers are not even visible from many angles behind the thick foam protective walls.
The open class. This is where the video hradware freaks find their fix. Above we have already seen the “Moneyshot” from Catalyst Machineworks (NurkFPV flies it in productions) – here there is only one rule: The thing must be able to lift the camera and accelerate it properly.
Since it becomes very specific here, I would suggest and you wrote me an email if you are interested. And yes, you should be ready to spend a four to five figure amount 😉
Shendrones – Siccario CinelifterCatalyst Machineworks Money Shot Mini (sic!)
Conclusion
CineWhoops are rad. =)
With CineWhoops FPV has got a new flavor. And this one is popular: FPV video is hot, the selection of ready-made drones is really extensive. Are you missing something in this article? Then simply reply to the newsletter, then I will be happy to add it.
If you’re reading this, you probably saw a cool FPV video not too long ago and thought: I want that too! You want to know what you need to get started (like a complete FPV beginner package, just the best beginner FPV drone) and get started right away.
Then congratulations, you have found the right page. =)
To get you started: Yes, FPV flying is as awesome as it looks! It takes a lot of practice, but once you know how to control your quad, the immersion with the FPV goggles allows for an almost unbelievable flying experience that is unlike anything else.
If you already own a camera drone like a DJI Mavic, good for you. Then you already know three of four axes on the remote control. But FPV is a whole other level, so you’re almost starting from scratch again. Sorry.
In my previous articles on the “Best Beginner FPV Drone,” I always recommended a fixed combination of drone, goggles, and radio. But in the meantime, there are a lot more options for putting together the necessary stuff for different needs — and of course, there are still complete packages that allow you to fly right out of the box.
That’s why I’ve put together four packages for every budget and taste.
Rough breakdown by budget
The Tiny Whoop package
The serious start – The affordable variant
The serious start -The Pro variant
The expensive DJI variant
What are the differences in the packages?
Very roughly — they differ in how much time you have to put in before you can fly, how much money you like to spend, and how good the drone is 😉 And if we look into more detail:
The first package is really a complete FPV beginner package: you buy the complete package, and it has everything in it that you need. The second and third ‘packages’ are individual parts (drone, radio, goggles, accessories). These two are also the ‘serious’ entry into the hobby. Something you were looking for, right?
And last but not least, despite much hate from the community, I will also include the DJI FPV Combo package. Why it is so controversial, and what the advantages and especially disadvantages of this package for FPV beginners are, I will show you later.
The Tiny Whoop complete package
The advantages of this set are obvious: you have a drone, remote, and goggles in one package. You can unpack that and start flying immediately.
When you see the pictures with the Tiny Whoop (that’s this mini drone with the protection around the propellers), you might think it’s a child’s toy. But it’s far from that. This mini quadcopter has a full-fledged flight controller, the component that allows you to perform the flight maneuvers of a real FPV racer.
And I dare say that every serious FPV pilot has at least one Tiny Whoop at home, with which he flies around indoors in winter. With this small drone (only 7 cm edge length and about 25 g), you can fly indoors and even bump into something. Or let the kids (or girlfriend 😉 ) fly.
In addition, the tiny ones do not make much noise, which is why you can literally fly them anywhere. Take it to the BBQ with your buddies? Fly from in the garden sitting in the Living Room? No problem. The TinyWhoop variant has the charm in its versatility — and you learn everything you need to fly even larger FPV Racing Drones.
Unfortunately, showing spectacular videos to your friends doesn’t work so well because you can’t save the videos to an SD card with the TinyWhoop. So you can only watch it live via the goggles, but not on the PC or similar. But via a ***second, inexpensive pair of goggles, you can also let other people watch FPV — and believe me; your friends will celebrate you for that!
The BetaFPV Whoop Racing Starter Kit — The small drone can do so much more than you expect
With the complete package, you don’t have the entry hurdle with combining components and can start flying right away — and immediately have an awesome flying experience. There is no need for the “binding” that you know from other FPV drones, which can be really tedious.
And the small Tiny Whoops are controlled just like the big ones: In fact, it’s the same remotes and radio protocols that are being used. If you can master the small one, you can fly a big one. So, the Tiny Whoop is perfect for getting started.
And by the way, you can use the radio remote and goggles included in this package for a larger FPV drone if you want to upgrade.
The serious beginner package — The affordable variant
Okay, this is where it gets serious: The iFlight Nazgul is a 5″ drone. This is the “standard” for FPV racing drones. Here you get the classic flight physics, and you can mount a GoPro and make those cool videos you know from YouTube.
Clearly speaking, this is not a “complete package.” It is an assembly list. You still have the task of buying the individual parts and putting them together.
Many would say, “Why don’t you get a decent remote and practice with a simulator first to see if that’s for you?” — And they’re definitely not wrong about that. But if you’re like me, you really want to get your hands on something right away.
And you want to keep it affordable. But you should still be aware that you can’t get started right away: A little practice on the simulator is necessary before your first flight (but that works with the radio that I recommend here in the package), and also a little preparation is necessary: Read how to charge the batteries, connect the radio with the drone (binding) and a few things more.
The iFlight Nazgul5 quadcopter comes assembled and is a price-performance hit.
But this package here is the solid base that will get you into the FPV world. All the components are good and really worth the money — and over time, you will crash so hard that you will have to change not only the propeller but also the motor. This is “part of the game,” and even if you can’t imagine it today — you are serious about it, the soldering iron will become your friend for sure. =)
Short info about Banggood: The store with a name that would do honor to a porn movie site may seem a little suspicious to you now — but Banggood is a real player in the FPV sector. And the site of the store is also more reliable than it seems at first.
For the Chinese manufacturers (yes, most of the FPV sector comes from China), Banggood is THE dealer. If you get into FPV, you will definitely have a lot to do with Banggood. And I’m very happy with Banggood as a supplier so far. The delivery times are long (2-3 weeks is standard), but the prices are very good. And even the service is satisfactory. If something doesn’t arrive properly, you often have to upload proof in the form of a video or picture, then you get a replacement sent if you have a legitimate claim. At least that’s how it’s always been for me.
If you’ve been paying attention, you’ll immediately see that we’re looking at the same FPV drone like the one below in the much more expensive Digital package. Why? Because iFlight has created a real price-performance monster with the Nazgul.
Ever since the extremely critical FPV legend Mr. Steele flew the Nazgul (although he actually only wanted the camera) and rated it good, there are hardly any dissenting voices. It’s just a good quad. Period.
For really good videos, you can mount a GoPro on top. Unfortunately, the small GoPro Session is no longer available — So, 5″ (the size of the propellers and the classification) is necessary to carry the bigger cam.
And the Nazgul carries that GoPro through the air in a truly impressing way. It’s a neatly assembled package of good motors, a decent stack with a flight controller, VTX, and receiver.
Eachine EV800D (FPV goggles)
Since we are here for an affordable FPV setup, we’re using an analog signal. Now we are looking for FPV goggles. A good compromise between quality and price is the boxed goggles, i.e., goggles with a large screen that is a bit wider in front of the eyes.
The Eachine boxed goggle is ugly but does a decent job without costing too much.
The EV800D model recommended here has a few years under its belt but is still in demand, and for a good reason: diversity receiver for a good picture, a DVR to record the flights (very important to determine the location for recovery after a crash), ease of use, and a nice second life as an external monitor (the “glasses frame” is removable) for guests and when tinkering if you do want to upgrade.
With the radio, you specify which protocol you want to fly with. The radio remote control and the receiver in the racing drone must speak the same language. FlySky is an even cheaper protocol than FrSky (i.e., the radio and receiver are cheaper), but I want to use FrSky as the minimum because of the reliability and range. There are other protocols for long-range (flying extremely far away), but here you also need other video equipment, etc.
The budget model Taranis X9 Lite from FrSky
In any case, FrSky has built up a widespread and reliable fleet of remotes with the Taranis series, and the FrSky Taranis Lite recommended here is really solid for a very reasonable price.
One more thing: Almost all remote controls run with “OpenTX” — this is the operating system and the quasi-standard in the FPV area. Unfortunately, I find it anything but intuitive to use, but since it is so widespread, you can also find a forum post or a YouTube video for every question.
If you really have to watch every dime, there is a cool option even in the FrSky world: The BetaFPV Lite SE is a real FrSky radio (above from the Whoop package), but without display, and it can only connect to one copter. And it works on the simulator too. =)
My girlfriend still flies the BetaFPV Lite with her current FPV racing drone. I myself have a FrSky X-Lite — mainly because I can fly many different models with it, and I like the “controller style.”
With the two FrSky radio remote controls, however, it should be said that a bit of training is required here: You have to “bind,” i.e., connect the radio with the quadrocopter or the receiver — and this is unfortunately not as intuitive as it should be. But with a YouTube search and a little patience, you can get there.
With real FPV racing drones, you only have very short flight times. Here it is so 3-8 minutes, depending on whether you’re leisurely cruising or “Send it” =)
In the package, we have selected the 4S. So 4 cells per battery. Currently, 6S are also very common (there, you must then also have the motors with suitable Volts on the quad), but the performance advantages for beginners are hardly noticeable. And 6S is just significantly more expensive (both the LiPos and the chargers).
A Tattu 4S 1300mAh LiPo battery where you can clearly see the 4 cells
Another important thing: LiPos, i.e., lithium-polymer batteries, is a completely different matter than lithium-ion batteries. Even small damages can make them a fire hazard. Please take the time and read up a bit or watch a video on YouTube on the subject!
LiPo Charger: ISDT 608AC Battgo Lipo Charger AC / DC
The battery charger is really cheap when you consider that you get a charger from ISDT, including a detachable power supply (Yes, charger and power supply separately are in FPV what normal). I have it and do not want to miss it anymore. Not the fastest, but very compact and just really mature – as you are used to from ISDT.
I got by for the first few years with a very simple Charsoon “Balance Loader.” It is certainly not so cool for the LiPos, but if every euro counts, you get along with it in any case and your racing drone in the air.
However, if you want to impress with awesome FPV videos with this package, you’ll have to add a GoPro. The FPV feed, which you can see on the goggles, is enough to fly (and get your adrenaline pumping) but just too low quality for outsiders (reminiscent of 80s VHS tapes).
However, the Nazgul has more than enough power to move a GoPro through the air — and a suitable mount for the GoPro is already included.
The serious FPV beginner’s package: The “digital” variant
OK. Now we are at the “serious digital variant.” Here you have to be ready to spend a four-digit amount. But the visual experience is a completely different dimension to the FPV beginner package above.
The iFlight Nazgul5 HD v2 as a 6S variant — This thing convinces and puts the DJI in its place.
Here, we don’t use the “old” analog technology for transmitting the image to the goggles while flying (which is still used in the high-end sector — do not misunderstand) – but here we’re the proprietary digital technology from the ‘camera drone’ top dog company DJI. That said, the drone is from iFlight, but the goggles and radio are from DJI.
DJI has brought a product to the FPV racing drone space that has really shaken up the scene, called the ‘DJI Digital FPV System.’ It’s a closed system, meaning you’re largely reliant on DJI’s products, and there’s no alternative — but the digital image is really awesome. DIJ in the FPV world is like Apple to computers: you’re trapped in their world, but the product works very well.
Even the hypercritical “homebuilt-only” Mr. Steele likes the Nazgul
The digital image in the goggles is killer, the range with the DJI system is incredible — and there’s no need for a bunch of configuration and customizing since the radio works out of the box. You don’t have to read into additional things like transmission protocols.
Since we are in the performance package, we also need descent LiPos that fulfill their purpose as “ultra-high-discharge” devices. Lithium polymer batteries that enable full performance with extremely high voltage and extremely high discharge currents.
Tattu R-Line LiPo — enough power to start a car engine
LiPos are such a topic of their own, and over time even individual packs gain your affection, despite having three identical ones next to them. Each pack is a bit individual, needs care (how you charge it, what voltage you store it at, etc.), and when buying it, you can often only rely on the manufacturer’s reputation. But there is a kind of consensus with the batteries from Tattu (which were also recommended above), only this one is two cells more (6S) and in the professional version: Tattu R-Line (“R” like Race). With the 120C, you can start a car without problems.
As with the package above, I also recommend ISDT here — just a bit bigger, so parallel charging is also possible. And also, with a built-in power supply – I find that simply more practical.
The D2 charger from ISDT has two slots and plenty of power
Let’s talk about the Elephant in the Room: DJI FPV Combo. As the introduction of the DJI FPV system (which we use in the package above) hadn’t already caused enough controversy in the FPV world. The DJI FPV Combo with the DJI FPV Drone splits the community into two almost irreconcilable camps.
The DJI FPV Combo Drone – All there, but very fragile.
I’ll try to summarize the most important things about the DJI FPV complete package:
Is this the fastest way to get started with FPV? => YES!
Expensive => YES!
Is the DJI FPV Combo worth the price => YES and NO!
Is DJI’s FPV Drone stable enough for an FPV racer => NO! (Not kidding, this thing breaks: if you want to fly close to objects – and you do if you want to do FPV “the right way” – this thing will explode faster than you can say [insert something random here]).
Can I save a lot of time with research, building and customization => YES!
Can I slowly “work my way up” flight-wise if I’m a beginner / already have a DJI drone => YES!
Do I pay exorbitant prices for the batteries (but they are safer) and other accessories => YES!
Do I get the convenience I expect, like “return to home”, “unpack and go” or an “emergency pause” button? => YES!
Do I get fantastic range and very long flight times for an FPV racer? => YES!
Do I give up the openness to use different systems, can I no longer repair myself, thus betraying a little the basic values of the RC / FPV world and put myself in the dependence of a single manufacturer? => YES!
Is this the best package on the market for cinematic shots with dynamics? => YES!
The DJI FPV Combo can clearly claim victory in terms of beginner-friendliness
IIf you now say to yourself: I have the money and want to fly FPV as fast as possible, this is certainly a good option. And the DJI FPV Combo certainly has the best recording capacities “out of the box” that you can wish for.
With the upper Nazgul packages, you first have to mount a GoPro and edit with tools like ReelSteady Pro to get to that level. And for the world between DJI camera drone footage and hardcore FPV footage, i.e., “cinematic FPV,” the DJI FPV Combo is unbeaten. And here, you can have unbelievably long flight times compared to approximate flight characteristics of a classic FPV drone paired with a smart camera.
However, suppose you are interested in racing, flying through forests and abandoned buildings, or proximity (flying extremely close to objects and buildings or just above the ground). In that case, this probably isn’t the way to go. One crash, and you’re in full dependency on DJI repair. With the iFlights from above, you have to be able to break something in the first place (the carbon frames can take an incredible beating), and if you do, you’ll quickly learn how to replace a motor or arm on your own.
If you don’t want that (self-repair) but want a real FPV RTF set (“Ready to Fly,” i.e., an FPV drone complete set with goggles) without reading up on radio protocols, LiPo batteries, etc. — then there is almost only the DJI option. And compared to the TinyWhoop complete package (also ready to fly), the DJI complete system can record awesome videos, while the TinyWhoop is only there for the fun of flying.
As I said, this is almost a matter of faith — for some, it is the best FPV drone for beginners; for others a crime against the hobby. You have to decide for yourself.
YES, MAN!!! THIS is actually the real right way to go in FPV. Simulator practice, then build it yourself. And there I would also rely on local stores to buy the parts – you have an entirely different contact and delivery time, if something may not be OK.
Keywords
FPV Drone Complete Set
FPV Drone Complete Set with Goggles
FPV Drone Beginner
Best FPV Drone for Beginners
The predecessor (2023) of the “Best entry-level drone.”
The HGLRC XJB-145 with a GoPro SessionThe HGLRC XJB-145 – For me, the best entry-level drone 2023My XJB-145 ate a little dirt
Apart from the normal DR1 Racing League battles, there was a Off-Leage 1-on-1 race between the loudest (Alex Vanover ) and the fastest (Minchan Kim) where after an early crash of Vanover, Minchan Kim “showed off” his unbelievable racing skills.
Learning to fly FPV drones – The book for download
8 Steps to the FPV Pilot – The Book to Learn to Fly FPV Drones
Controlling an FPV drone is much more difficult than, for example, a DJI Phantom or DJI Mavic Pro. Finally, it is about racing equipment, which should move at the absolute limit. Information and strategies about the FPV fly and how to learn the fastest how to find a drone in the book “In 8 steps to the FPV pilot”. The book is a “how-to” for beginners and advanced.
How do I learn to fly a racecopter?
Practice by! (“No, really now?”). Is probably obvious. But what exactly you should practice, with which flight exercises you should start, you will find in the book. The “basic exercises” will help you even if you want to learn to control a camera drone safely. Later, the exercises and maneuvers that are only possible with an xxxxx ACRO-capable racing drone come later. To initiate the famous Split-S maneuver, for example, you have to turn the drone upside down – this is only possible with racers with modern FC’s. What comes after the head over-part you can read in the book.
The book for FPV beginners at Digistore for 9,95 Euro
The book “In 8 Steps to FPV Pilot” is a book with step-by-step instructions for beginners and interested people. It is available at xxxxx Digistore24.de for € 9,95.
Now the good: Here on FPVRacingDrone.de you can get the book “In 8 steps to the FPV Pilot” for a short time free of charge when you sign up for the newsletter. When this action is over, the book will be available to newsletter subscribers for a discount.
What do I have to do to get the book for free?
Not much: Just sign up for the newsletter here and you will receive a download link as long as the campaign is running. If the action is over, you will receive a coupon code for a discount on Digistore24.
Can I just unsubscribe from the newsletter if I have downloaded the book?
Yes, you can. But in fairness, I would be happy if you stay a little bit in the newsletter. In addition, you will receive exciting FPV information with the newsletter: New articles or updates on articles about FPV Racing Drones and news from the FPV Racing and Freestyle scene.
An FPV AIO Cam is a small component that combines a camera, a video transmitter (VTx) and an antenna. This component only needs a power source and you can already receive the signal with FPV goggles .
Such a tiny camera can then be glued to all sorts of things and see the world from their perspective. If you can now control the whole thing (like race models or threats) you have a real “first-person perspective” experience.
How do I connect an FPV AIO Cam to a drone?
It is enough to connect the cam sufficiently safe with the drone. “Sure enough” means here: It should not be able to slip or change its angle. Sometimes it is sufficient to attach the cam with a rubber band, sometimes help mounts specifically for the cam were built. The AIO cams are quite light, usually between 2 and 6 grams.
Where does the Cam get electricity from?
It is also not necessary to somehow connect an FPV AIO Cam to the drone. You can equip the camera with its own power supply, eg an S1 Lipo battery . That’s what we did with our DJI Mavic Air FPV .
But if you want to upgrade a tiny drone like the Eachine E010 to such an “all-in-one” camera as a real FPV drone, you need to tap the drone power supply, because the drone will not have enough power for another battery.
A very exciting development: There are now FPV AIO Cams with integrated HD video recorder (DVR – Digital Video Recorder). Then you put a small MicroSD in the AIO Cam and can take the picture with much better quality than it receives on the glasses.
Eachine DVR03
For big threats, you usually use either a GoPro Session, Foxeer Box or a RunCam Split (for the latter, the same lens/camera is used for both FPV feed and HD recording => ladder than with extra). Camera).
Foxeer box
Now it’s also available in AIO format, and the Eachine DVR03 weighs just under 7 grams. This makes it almost possible to build the whole thing on a Tiny-Whoop and record the flight adventure in a beer garden, kitchen, and office in HD quality!
Eachine DVR03 AIO FPV cam
Unfortunately, the output of the FPV feed suffers somewhat from the recording. If the DVR is activated, you will not have as many FPS (frames per second) as normal.
And yet I’ll get the thing well – I have the guts to record a flight with a mini-drone in something better quality!
