SIMULATOR ENTRY

flying FPV racing drone using the best the simulator

To get started with FPV racing drone flying, the simulator (a software that looks like a game – but has extremely realistic flight behavior) is particularly well suited.

To get started with the simulator, you only need two things: the simulator itself (i.e. the software) and a “radio” – the radio remote control. You can use this later to control your real drones. If you start with simulators, you can save a bunch of money that you would have spent on wrecked drones in the learning process.

What do you understand below, “Getting started with FPV simulator”?

Actually, exactly what is written above. That you just do not start with a real FPV drone, but with the radio and software. This is mainly to avoid the frustration when you start with FPV and only crashing is and so quickly loses the desire because the material is damaged, or you just do not get together “air time”. And you can see if this “FPV thing is something for you at all”.

However, this does not mean that it is now forbidden to buy a quad. On the contrary, I would even recommend buying a Tiny-Whoop package (look here) and practice with this spark on the simulator.

Others say: Only 5″ racers are the “true” FPV and therefore buy nothing but a really good (expensive) remote control and learn first ONLY on the simulator, then buy the parts and build your 5″ yourself. Works too – you have to decide for yourself.

FPV Racing Simulators

FPV drones have slowly arrived, and there are now even a considerable number of simulators, so you can pick one to your liking. Some are more realistic, some are cheaper, some are more fun. My recommendation is at the bottom of the text.

What almost all of them have in common (except Velocidrone) is that they run on Steam. If you don’t know Steam – it’s a gaming platform where you can download various games. Downloadable from SteamPowered.com

DRL – The Drone Racing League Simulator

The DRL is known to many from television. It is one of the biggest racing leagues, has made FPV racing known to a wide mass and even has its own special FPV racers. And of course this league has its own simulator.

To fly in the DRL, you can even qualify via the simulator!

The simulator of the DRL is also the gateway to the league
The simulator of the DRL is also the gateway to the league

The DRL Sim is in any case extremely popular and many praise especially the realistic propwash behavior. For under 10 euros definitely one of the best sims.

DCL – The Game

The Drone Champions League (DCL) is not as bling-bling as the DRL, flies “normal” FPV racing drones, and of course has its own simulator. The bling-bling is made up for in the sim, though: the DCL feels more “arcade”: The graphics are awesome, the effects opulent, the quads partly from the league, partly like from a manga comic, the tracks partly original tracks of the DCL, partly awesome, creative maps just for the sim. But even if the controls are quite realistic, the “Moon Gravity” (i.e. the drone falls too slowly), which increases the fun of the game, especially for beginners, makes many turn up their noses.

Chrissi on the DCL simulator
Chrissi on the DCL simulator

DCL is the most game, costs a bit more and has the least claims to “realistic simulator” in this list. Nevertheless, I have to say that the DCL simulator is the most fun, many of the world’s elite pilots are also at the start, and you can fly directly against their ghosts. I like!

Liftoff

Lifoff is probably “the classic” among simulators: it was one of the first and has gotten many features over time. It is very realistic and has nice routes, but from today’s point of view it seems a bit stiff to me and not as “polished” as the sims of the couches. Still the simulator with my most flying hours.

VelociDrone FPV Racing Simulator

Velocidrone is also an original and developed from an open source project. It is only available on its own servers, and Velocidrone’s overall feel is a bit more awkward, and the graphics are not quite as exciting. A bit the opposite of DCL.

VelociDrone - The Pro-Sim
VelociDrone – The Pro-Sim

Nevertheless, Velocidrone is THE simulator for many professionals, it is praised by almost everyone for the most realistic flight behavior and with appropriate tuning in-game you get the most likely replica of your own drone.

Velocidrone is cult – has a huge fan base and many plugins to buy like the one for TinyWhoops (Yes, this is probably THE sim for TinyWhoops).

FPV Freerider

FPV Freerider is a very good beginner simulator. The advantages:

  • Cheap (Only 5 euros)
  • Realistic flying model
  • Runs even on weaker computers (or even on the cell phone!)
  • Flight characteristics and physics adjustable

Above all, the fact that Freerider is so undemanding of hardware that it will probably run on a smart toaster is a “Huge plus”.

FPV Freerider Recharged is the successor and has much more elaborate graphics (is even quite demanding on the hardware) and also costs a bit more. Freerider has its own niche, as it runs everywhere, Freerider Recharged goes down a bit. But it’s still nice, especially for high-end phones:

Orqa FPV.SkyDive – Free of charge!

Yes, this simulator is free! (And not bad)
Yes, this sim is free! (And not bad)

The makers of one of the best analog goggles, Orqa, have built a really neat FPV simulator. And this one is for free! I’ve only had a quick look – but for people who pay attention to every euro, this is definitely a cool option!

My FPV Simulator recommendation

I’m sure I’m a bit lonely in the FPV scene, but I recommend the DCL Simulator for beginners! Why? Simply because it is the most fun & motivating. In my opinion, this is more important than realistic gravity modeling.

If the computer is not powerful enough, then take FPV Freerider. And if it gets “serious” later, check Velocidrone, without money FPV.SkyDive.

Radio remote controls for FPV racers

It may be worth spending a lot of money on the spark, since you won’t have to change it later on when your hobby grows on you, and you control your full-grown racing quadcopter with it.

“Remote controls for FPV racers” is of course a topic which is discussed here in great detail.

Which spark should I get for the simulator?

But if you want to have a recommendation right now, which is cool for simulators practice and with which you can still do something later, I would recommend the BetaFPV LiteRadio 2 SE ELRS. Since you do nothing wrong at first, and the price is really fair (yes, sparks can be VERY expensive).

Cheap, cool for the simulator and your first FPV drone: LiteRadio 2 SE ELRS from BetaFPV
Cheap, cool for the simulator and your first FPV drone: LiteRadio 2 SE ELRS from BetaFPV

Can you also fly with an XBox or Playstation controller simulator?

Mobile FPV training with FPV Freerider (see above) and a console controller
Mobile FPV training with FPV Freerider (see above) and a console controller

In principle, this is possible. Most modern controllers like the Sony DualSense or Xbox Elite Series 2 have drivers for the computer and can thus also be used for the simulator. Nevertheless, it is not quite as recommended, because:

  • The side with “Throttle” has no spring in a normal spark. I.e. it is not pulled to the center.
  • The analog sticks of console controllers have only a very short travel, i.e. are not as precise as a real remote control for FPV drones (there’s already a reason why those are used 😉

For point 1, you should switch to “3D Mode” when using console controllers: Then the zero point of the throttle is in the middle and you accelerate with “up”. This costs even more precision, but throttle zero at the bottom and spring in the middle at throttle 50 is quite strange. With 3D mode clearly better!

Tasks

Start game and improve lap times. =)
To keep the learning curve steep, switch from “Self-Leveling Mode” to “Acro Mode” as soon as possible. I.e. as soon as you have understood which lever on the remote control does what. Because only in “Acro-Mode” the full three-dimensional control of the racing quad is possible. Acro mode (which, by the way, stands for “acrobatic” and not for an aggressive flying style ;-)) is also what makes the essential difference between a racecopter and a camera drone like a DJI Mavic. And yes, it is so hard to fly “Acro” in the beginning. So you have to put in 10-20 flying hours until you master it.

FPV RC PROTOCOLS | ELRS, TRACER, CROSSFIRE, GHOST, FLYSKY, FRSKY, DSMX

ExpressLRS: High-performance Open Source Radio

FPV receiver and its RC radio protocols

One of the biggest and unfortunately most complex issues in the FPV hobby are the radio protocols and their transmitters (controllers, radio) and receivers (the receiving unit on the FPV drone) – that is, the controlling connection between the control unit in your hand and your quad. (Note, this is different from the video feed, which is the connection for the image!).

To be quite honest, I think it’s also one of the most annoying and daunting topics with quite a bit of frustration potential. So it doesn’t have to be that way, if you want to get started as an FPV beginner – read this article!

OK, but what’s so dumb about this topic?

Read more
  • You must decide which protocol you want to use before making your first purchase.
  • There is no compatibility among the protocols.
  • The “binding”, i.e. the connection between the controller and the quad, is often more complicated than one would expect in today world.
  • Poor protocols lead to many disconnections, and thus crashes.

But for now, let’s get to the good news:
Right now (in the year 2022) a lot is happening, so that at least the last point slowly belongs to the past. With ExpressLRS (ELRS), an inexpensive (in terms of hardware costs) and at the same time very stable, long-range protocol has come onto the market, which is about to completely replace the old, inexpensive and unfortunately not very reliable ones (FlySky and FrSky).

Overview of the protocols

Proprietary / Cost / Link table

ProtocolSource codeLink-QualityDistributionEase of Use
Crossfire❌ Proprietary✅ Good✅ High✅ Go
DSM2 / DSMX❌ Proprietary🟡 Medium❌ Infrequent🟡 Medium
Express LRS✅ Open✅ Good📈 Increases ❌ Complicated
FlySky✅ Open❌ Low✅ High 📉 Declines❌ Complicated
FrSky✅ Open🟡 Medium✅ High❌ Complicated
FrSky R9✅ Open✅ Good❌ Low❌ Complicated
Ghost❌ Proprietary✅ Good❌ Low🟡 Medium
Tracer❌ Proprietary🟡 Medium❌ Low✅ Go
Overview of the different FPV RC Link protocols

The protocols in detail

(From old to new.)

Spektrum DSM2 and Spektrum DSMX – Good old school

Spektrum DSM2 and Spektrum DSMX

It is occasionally seen by some pros and old hands and still has some prevalence in model aviation, but I must confess that we have no own and also no experience in our environment with DSM2 and DSMX.
Sorry.

FlySky – The low-cost protocol to start with

FlySky - The low-cost protocol

FlySky has been the entry point for many people in the FPV business – it simply had the price advantage. But at least as many have then moved on. FlySky has a crappy link. Far away is not possible anyway, but sometimes it just happens that the link is gone and the drone failsafes and drops to the ground.

Due to the extremely low price, FlySky has nevertheless lasted for a long time, but with ELRS, the days that some many people used it may slowly be gone.

FrSky – Bread & Butter RC

FrSky - Bread & Butter RC

FrSky is minimally more expensive than FlySky and also a popular entry-level variant. FrSky’s radios were also long considered the non-plus-ultra in the FPV world. The FrSky Taranis was probably the most constant recommendation before there were game-style controllers.

And FrSky also has much better range and stability than FlySky, but still it is not mid-range and long-range suitable, and link quality and price of installed hardware also had a high correlation.

FrSky and FlySky are quite common in the beginner sector, and yet they are really anything but beginner-friendly. The binding with bridging of pins and simultaneous connection of the battery is only feasible with three hands, and the channel mapping with FrSky you have to have understood first, so that you can set everything correctly in the radio.

Fortunately, there is a lot of help and material about FrSky on the web. Pretty much everyone has had to deal with it at one time or another. However, I think with Express LRS, the days of FrSky (at least the “old” D8 and D12 protocols) are numbered.

FrSky R9 and LR12

There are some newer protocols from FrSky, which are more tailored to the needs of racers and long range. R9 and R9M work with 900MHz.

TBS Crossfire

TBS Crossfire

Crossfire’s link is almost like a cable. Nothing shakes the 900MHz link, for so many who switched from FlySky or FrSky, Crossfire was THE revelation.

If money is not the biggest issue, Crossfire is definitely a very good choice.

TBS Crossfire

Pros: Excellent link, fairly simple setup

Disadvantages: Expensive, large antennas, proprietary

TBS Tracer

TBS Tracer

Less range than Crossfire but super-low latency due to FLRC: Tracer is the protocol for racers from Team Blacksheep (TBS). But again, the cost is high and antennas and modules are too large for extremely small copters.

ImmersionRC Ghost

ImmersionRC Ghost

ImmersionRC is known in the FPV scene for very good, innovative hardware and has established itself as a technology for racing. And with your “Ghost” protocol no less written on the flags, than to create the egg-laying willow: Lowest latencies for racers with devious 550Hz resolution, Huge ranges over 40Km in 2.4Ghz band, small receiver for whoops, medium for the full power.

ImmersionRC Ghost

And they have done their homework: Ghost is reliable and at home in several “disciplines” at the same time. But expensive and proprietary.

ExpressLRS (ELRS)

ExpressLRS (ELRS)

Last, but definitely not least: ExpressLRS! ELRS has in a very short time gone from open-source frickel-protocol (“You have to flash the module yourself and build a case”) to the candidate for the new “standard” in FPV: Receiver in all sizes, has an excellent link, low latency and more range than you need for FPV flying, new radios have ELRS mostly already built in and BNF Quads almost always come with an ELRS option. There are different bands (2.4GHz, 900MHz) depending on the application (Racing/Freestyle, Long range) A bit complicated is the setup partly still (keyword OpenTX flashing), but it has especially three huge advantages:

  • ELRS is open source (not proprietary)
  • ELRS is an excellent protocol
  • ELRS is cheap

The latter follows from the former: ExpressLRS was developed open source by the community, and any manufacturer can develop hardware for it license-free. This lowers costs considerably and ensures healthy competition.

What about controllers

FPV RC Module Format: Nano-Module (Lite) and JR Module

If your radio is not internally equipped with the protocol, it is possible to retrofit a module to almost all controllers. For these modules, there are different shaft sizes. Except for a few exotics, there are actually only two common ones: The JR Module Bay and the Nano Module Bay.

Two different sizes to "upgrade" the controller: The JR module on the left and a Nano (Lite) module on the right.
Two different sizes to “upgrade” the controller: The JR module on the left and a Nano (Lite) module on the right.

JR modules have two retaining clips on the side and are often the options with the strongest output powers, Nano modules are plugged in and are used primarily for “game controller style” radios.

Firmware: OpenTX and EDGETX

[To be completed]

Multi-protocol Controller

There are a lot of controllers that support multiple protocols. If you already own a few FPV racers with older protocols, you can ensure compatibility with the CC2500 and JP4in1.

Other than that:

Recommended purchase

If you’re new to FPV, there’s one clear buy recommendation: ELRS! ExpressLRS is about to become the new standard for the radio protocol. So if you’re just starting out, get a radio that supports ELRS out of the box and a matching FPV drone with ELRS on board, or upgrade to an ELRS receiver.

Receiver recommendation

ELRS has such a great range that you only need “real” antennas (antennas that protrude visibly from the racer) if you really want to fly far away (long range). For what we normally do – racing and freestyle – a soldered antenna with ELRS is quite sufficient.

A decent brand is BetaFPV, so the two Nano modules can be recommended almost without restrictions:

Prices here:

Radio / Controller recommendation

Very short and to the point, if you’re new to the subject, get a radio with ELRS, and get a RadioMaster. In the past, a controller from FrSky from the Taranis series was almost always recommended (I fly an X-Lite myself), but in the meantime it must be said that the RadioMaster simply offers the better price-performance ratio.

Then you really only have to decide between the design: Gamepad Style Controller or Block.

Radio Master Zorro

With the Zorro, Radiomaster has really created an ingenious overall package for a fantastic price.

Radio Master Zorro

RadioMaster TX12 / TX16S

For starters, the TX12 is enough, if you are more confident with your ambitions (or simply want to have something that you can sell again well in case of doubt), get the TX16S. This radio is now flown by many professionals.

BetaFPV LiteRadio 3

As a budget option, still the LiteRadio 3 from BetaFPV. (There is also a “Pro” version with display).

BetaFPV LiteRadio 3

Glossar

What does TX mean

This is the protocol / the radio link “from radio to receiver”.

What does RX (TRX) mean

This is the protocol “From Receiver to FC (Flight Controller)”.

Any more questions / Forgotten something?

Then just write me a reply to the newsletter – I’m happy to help!

CINEWHOOP

CineWhoop - FPVRacingDrone

[Update 2022!]

A very young category in FPV, but probably the one with the biggest social impact: CineWhoops. Hardly any sporting event, Red Bull campaign, car commercial or Hollywood movie today can do without action-packed FPV images from a racing drone, and these are mostly CineWhoops.

What exactly are CineWhoops? What do you need to know if you want to fly a CineWhoop yourself? How you can earn money with it and which exciting models are currently available? You can find all that out here.

The DJI Avata has made the CineWhoop sector interesting, especially for beginners, with this complete package.
The DJI Avata has made the CineWhoop sector interesting, especially for beginners, with this complete package.

What is a CineWhoop?

Very briefly: CineWhoops (or HD Whoop or CineDrone) are small quadrocopters with propeller protection which are flown FPV (First Person View – i.e. from the perspective of the drone via goggles) and can record in HD.

The “history” of CineWhoops

At the very beginning was the TinyWhoop. A toy class quadcopter, those little drones with ducts/propguards (the rings around the propellers), but unlike the toy quads it has a real flight controller that lets it fly acro and has a receiver that connects to your real radio.

The next “escalation class” then came with the Brushless Whoop. In this article here, I wrote about the TinyHawk and the Mobula7, the small gamechangers for winter fun.

CineWhoops as Tiny Brushless Whoops with HD Camera

What has always been a shame about TinyWhoops: You couldn’t take an additional camera with you for YouTube-ready footage. But that changed with new split cameras:

RunCam Split Mini 2
RunCam Split Mini 2

RunCam brought the RunCam Split to the market. An FPV camera that could simultaneously supply the FPV feed, but also record in HD to a microSD along with the associated circuit board. Caddx followed suit with the Caddx Turtle and RunCam and eliminated the biggest shortcoming with the RunCam Mini: the circuit board shrunk and thus it was suddenly possible to bring HD recording into extremely small and lightweight quads. The Tiny CineWhoop was born.

One of the first Tiny Cinewhoops: Happymodel Mobula7 HD - not even 10cm long
One of the first Tiny Cinewhoops: Happymodel Mobula7 HD – not even 10cm long

What quickly became clear: The coolest thing about this class is the human-compatibility of brushless micros in combination with HD recording. This opened up completely new possibilities for videos, even if they are probably still not allowed everywhere.

From Tiny CineWhoop to GoPro CineWhoop

However, the HD capacities were not sufficient for “professional” recordings: Especially the emerging stabilization from GoPros was missing. But since the whoops with their ducts (the ring around the propellers) were simply better received by the people who were to be recorded, and since they have a much lower risk of injury than open propellers, the path was clear: with ducts, as small as possible, but already capable of carrying a decent camera.

One of the first 3″ Cinewhoops: Shendrones Squirt
One of the first 3″ Cinewhoops: Shendrones Squirt

Quickly landing on a consensus of about 3″ Ducted Quads – these FPV drones are loud, but small enough for exciting gaps and thrilling indoor shots. At the same time, you can get up close to people, and especially in the sports, athletes and audiences were excited about the new dimension in video.

Then another improvement came quickly: with a normal GoPro, the 3″ were no longer what you’d call an FPV Racing Drone in terms of flight characteristics – too heavy for the small motors, too hard a battle with the weight of the GoPro. SO what could you do? Slim down the GoPro! The naked GoPro was born, a strpped GoPro reducing the weight, bringing agility back to the 3″ GoPro CineWhoop class.

DJI vs. Standard

Meanwhile, DJI has also jumped on the Cinewhoops hype: The DJI Avata is a classic 3″ pusher (i.e. the propellers are pointed downwards). Nevertheless, the Avata is a great exception, because:

The “normal” CineWhoops are FPV racers, which are built on standardized parts. You can use different parts from different manufacturers. Different goggles, different radio. Different batteries for more or less power, and weight. However, this requires a lot of training, and also (or especially) the flying skills needs a lot of time to develop until you have it.

The DJI Avata has everything altogether in one nice pack, the goggles and image quality are incredibly good, and also for flying there are beginner modes and a stop button called “Emergency Break” that stops the FPV drone immediately. It costs more, and the LiPo batteries are also outrageously expensive – but for many, this is probably the fastest way to fly CineWhoops or get into the FPV world in general.

The stretched term “CineWhoop” today

Today, the term has expanded a bit: Meanwhile, everything in the FPV field that is primarily designed for video and cinematic (as opposed to focusing on flight performance) is actually called a CineWhoop.

Even 6 propeller monsters – tricopters with gyro, red camera and especially without ducts like from Nurk are called “CineWhoop” by many today. Because “Cine” just, like Cinematic, and Whoop, because Whoop is a FPV term I suppose? =) Actually, the term Cinelifter, CineQuad, Cinecopter, or for Nurkallas thing Cinetricopter would be more correct, but with CineWhoop everybody knows what is meant.

NurkFPV's sick Moneyshot Cinetricopter with Ronin Gyro
NurkFPV’s sick Moneyshot Cinetricopter with Ronin Gyro

How do I learn how to fly a CineWhoop?

From the controlling standpoint and the components used, a CineWhoop is no different from an FPV Racing Quad. Here at FPVRacingDrone.com you will find everything you need to know to get started!

If you’re coming from the DJI camp (DJI Mavic, DJI Mini, Mavic Air), you have a bit of a head start like that you know the controls on the controller and which axis is doing what. But as far as flying goes, you’re still at the beginning. Acro flying (“manual” at DJI) takes a bunch of practice.

If you’re up for that, sign up for the newsletter below, and you’ll get the beginner’s book “8 Steps to becoming an FPV Pilot” with it and then check out the articles here (So far only the german Version – I’ll do the translations ASAP:

How can I make money flying FPV (flying CineWhoop)?

Can you do that? Oh yes!!! FPV videos are so incredibly hot – and there are still only a few who can make it happen. So if you have collected some skills, you can offer your services. Even if you’re just starting out, it’s easy to gain experience with pro bono jobs. Pretty much every gym and restaurant wants a nice video of their space. So sign up directly to the job board!

Where can I get CineWhoop / FPV videos produced for my business?

You can find that here too 😉
But this is also aiming for the German market for now – let me know if you’re interested in an international version!

The best CineWhoop

SO, but now to the CineQuads / CineWhoops themselves. As always, there is no such thing as “the best one”. Because whether you want to fly across the table between two people in a café or whether you want to chase a drifting Porsche: different applications need different tools. That’s why we want to give you a few recommendations by class:

  • Tiny CineWhoops
  • 3″ Class
  • Open class

The best Tiny CineWhoops

The small speedsters were not only the “first ChineWhoops” – even today, this is probably the size with the greatest fun factor. Why? Because you can simply fly them anywhere, anytime. At home, at a friend’s house, outside… the Tiny CineWhoops are so small and “do no harm” – but you have to make a few sacrifices in the recording quality.

For the models below if you buy them, you will need to choose a radio protocol (depending on the controller) and get additional batteries. For FPV flying, you will, of course, need analog FPV goggles.

Eachine Cinefun

Eachine is not exactly known for the highest quality models, but with the CineFun, Eachine has made a big hit: Perfect flight performance for a 75 Tiny CineWhoop, and that with only 1S! There is also a 4K version with the Loris – my wife flies it, it’s a banger!

Our Eachine CineFun has seen many countries and survived crashes
Our Eachine CineFun has seen many countries and survived crashes

Whereas I find 4K exaggerated (you can upscale in case of doubt) – here the lack of stabilization and the missing ND filter are more noticeable. It’s also a bit more expensive than a normal Eachine, but still cheap overall for what it offers. Check out the prices here:

Alternatives:

Happymodel Mobula7 HD on Amazon

Happymodel Mobula7 HD on Banggood

URUAV UR85HD Bushido on Amazon

URUAV UR85HD Bushido on Banggood

iFlight CineBee 75HD

While the Cinefun is still very reminiscent of a TinyWhoop, the iFlight CineBee looks more like a minimized freestyle quad. This is mainly due to the carbon frame and the top-mount option for the LiPo. However, the additional weight is noticeable compared to the Cinefun.

iFlight CineBee 75HD
iFlight CineBee 75HD
iFlight CineBee 75HD Black
iFlight CineBee 75HD Black

Price comparison:

iFlight CineBee 75HD on Amazon
iFlight CineBee 75HD on Banggood

3″ Class

As mentioned above, the 3 inchers (3″ is the diameter of the propellers) have emerged as the golden mean of CineWhoops. Small enough for indoors and gaps, strong enough to carry a GoPro, protected by ducts, and really acrobatic with a naked GoPro – a little bit of everything.

One manufacturer that has even excelled is iFlight – and they have even degraded the duct to a mere protective ring on some CineWhoop frames. Usually, the duct is mainly there to make motors more efficient by compressing the airflow. However, since the ducts can become quite heavy on the larger copters, they are often reduced to a thin ring and used only as protection.

But now to the best CineWhoops:

iFlight ProTek35

iFlight ProTek35
iFlight ProTek35

The developers at iFlight have hit a nerve and created the right mix of weight, performance and handling with the ProTeks (there is a 3.5″ and a 2.5″ version). The two ProTek are available for DJI as well as in much cheaper analog versions:

Alternative:

Protek25 on Banggood (smaller!)

DJI Avata

DJI has brought the topic of CineWhoops to the masses. The DJI Avata is also an exception in this overview. With this product, you give up the openness to use products from other manufacturers via standards (LiPo batteries, controllers, goggles) – you have to rely on DJI and their prices.

DJI Avata
DJI Avata

On the other hand, you get a perfectly coordinated package for a lot of money and save a lot of time reading into stuff. What advantages and disadvantages of such a package are, you can read very well in the beginner article about the DJI FPV Combo.

If you want the fastest approach into Cinewhoops, here it is:

iFlight BumbleBee

And iFlight is represented twice in this category because in addition to the ProTek series, there is also the BumbleBee. I find the name really fitting: The frame in yellow-black is just a bit thicker, and in the air the “bumblebee” also makes a somewhat ponderous impression.

iFlight BumbleBee
iFlight BumbleBee

But actually, it is quite close to FPV maneuver and has many plus points in “acceptance”, since the propellers are not even visible from many angles behind the thick foam protective walls.

Alternative:

Diatone Taycan on Banggood
Diatone Taycan on Amazon

GepRC CineLog

Performant all-rounder: The GepRC CineLog35
Performant all-rounder: The GepRC CineLog35

Alternative:

Cinelog25 on Banggood (smaller!)

Open class

The open class. This is where the video hradware freaks find their fix. Above we have already seen the “Moneyshot” from Catalyst Machineworks (NurkFPV flies it in productions) – here there is only one rule: The thing must be able to lift the camera and accelerate it properly.

Since it becomes very specific here, I would suggest and you wrote me an email if you are interested. And yes, you should be ready to spend a four to five figure amount 😉

Shendrones - Siccario Cinelifter
Shendrones – Siccario Cinelifter
Catalyst Machineworks Money Shot Mini (sic!)
Catalyst Machineworks Money Shot Mini (sic!)

Conclusion

CineWhoops are rad. =)

With CineWhoops FPV has got a new flavor. And this one is popular: FPV video is hot, the selection of ready-made drones is really extensive. Are you missing something in this article? Then simply reply to the newsletter, then I will be happy to add it.